SURF Report

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southpeakbrad
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SURF Report

Post by southpeakbrad »

Finally some size in Southern California recently, and more to come. It feels like December, 2015 may be one of the most consistent months for surf ever. How has it been for you??
Willy Kelly
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Re: SURF Report

Post by Willy Kelly »

Well in Humboldt the surfs been 18-25 feet for about two weeks
Weather has been cold and rainy and hard frost for three days last week
I am on IR messed up my back in Santa Cruz in Late Oct.
A DOH wave smashed me in my lower back

Peace and good waves
Lefty
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Re: SURF Report

Post by Lefty »

18-25 ft waves, holy s*&^!!!!...oh wait, you lot measure the wave face. so just 9-12ft, piece of piss ;)
what length boards are you riding in that stuff?

typical summer slop here today on the east coast of oz. althought it hasn't been too bad a summer so far. hopefully we'll get some good cyclone swells in the new year.
it's a long way to the shop if you want a sausage roll
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southpeakbrad
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Re: SURF Report

Post by southpeakbrad »

Hey Willie,

I can relate. 7 weeks ago I got drilled by the lip duckdiving a ~2' OH wave in Baja. Lip landed on my right leg and resulted in a sprained knee!
hankj
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Re: SURF Report

Post by hankj »

Brad that's a bummer man. My totally unprofessional advice is let it get healed up really strong before testing it.

Been seeing pics of big Blacks in the past week - impressive! Up here the offshore buoys have been pinging over 30 feet at 18 seconds. Too big for the beaches, too big for the normal spots inside Grays Harbor. Legend has it that some guys up here who know the harbor really well surf perfect head rivermouths and points 8 or 10 miles from the ocean on huge swells, but you need a lot of time and local knowledge to make that happen for sure - I'll never get that - and reported to be hideously sharky (I think they hide up in the harbor so as not to become Orca-chow). Swell angle has been a little too south for the Strait to work (although the Strait, mysterious fucker that it is, has fired on smaller swells with more south so go figure), and the tide in there has this strange pattern wherein it cycles two high two low a day but sometimes gets stuck in an oscillation where the draining Sound makes the tide about the same at the same time of day for a month. So in the daytime for the past week and for the next two or three week the tide in the Strait has been/will be at least 5-6 feet and topping out at 9+. This is no bueno for the surf. The tide must be rising, and it can't be too high. It's been perfect at midnight and will be for the next few weeks. Friday when it was huuuuuge I did 8 hours of driving out there and got skunked, 40 bucks ferry fair, traffic jam coming back into Seattle. It was classic fucked by the Strait frustration.

You'd give up, except sometimes it gets soooo good http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/Yeahitgetsgood.htm
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southpeakbrad
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Re: SURF Report

Post by southpeakbrad »

Ha! LOL Hank, I was back in the water in a week....taking it easy of course. I had camping reservations at Cardiff a week after the injury so I had no choice but to "test it out". I didn't tear anything and had minimal to NO swelling so it was fine overall. But, they do take a long time to heal up (MCL)...making progress however 8)

I'm not sure I followed the WA surf report but I gather it's difficult to learn all of the variables and then actually score some good waves. Stoked for your commitment! Drop us a line next time you're down this way.
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Scott
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Re: SURF Report

Post by Scott »

Lots of swell in the Santa Cruz area, with a full range to choose from: macking Ocean Beach, Mavericks (yeah, right...), reefs north of Santa Cruz big but much more doable. Town with lots of days in the 6 - 10' range, and then places like The Hook and Capitola is you want some lined up, fun and easy. I haven't been as free to surf as I'd like to be, and really missed the monster swell of the last few days (but heard some stories that were amazing!). But will have more time off the next week or so, then a trip to Oahu and Maui to see what I can find there! Loving getting my new 6'3" Blast roundtail quad into some meaty waves and it goes well--thanks for letting that board go, Scott Hayward. Great time to be a surfer, to be a kneelo...

Merry Christmas.

Scott
I'm not influenced by the past; I change it!
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southpeakbrad
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Re: SURF Report

Post by southpeakbrad »

Healthy windswell cleaned up some overnight but with the high tide today surf was only fair at best. Should be cleaner with nice offshores on Saturday 8)
Willy Kelly
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Re: SURF Report

Post by Willy Kelly »

Humboldt the waves were 4-7 on the face and wedging fun peaks with myself and two other surfers in the water :D
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peace and good waves
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southpeakbrad
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Re: SURF Report

Post by southpeakbrad »

Feels like NorCal in SD....rain yesterday, today, and forecast through the weekend as well. Springtime down here can offer less crowded sessions with occasional really fun surf, especially if you stay on top of it. Hopefully I can report back later that that was the case!
Willy Kelly
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Re: SURF Report

Post by Willy Kelly »

up here in Nor Cal it has felt like So Cal 75 sunny with light winds and a fun 4-7 feet for a week 8)
Rain we had 54 inches this year and more to come :shock:

Peace and good waves
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flaps
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Re: SURF Report

Post by flaps »

Hey Willy, great to hear you got some of that super clean swell we had a week ago. I surfed it alone, you know where...I was calling it A++, 4-7', really glassy (great flying too!). 17 second power too..I was stoked to get something fun after giant surf for what seemed like weeks and weeks. We're at 79" of precip, hoping to get over 80 this next set of storms.
It's already good tomorrow...
Willy Kelly
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Re: SURF Report

Post by Willy Kelly »

Flaps do not ever surf alone call me if I am free I will bolt down and surf with you
it has been fun at all of the spots near me
peace and good waves
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