Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

All things being equal, which they never are in the real world, I would suppose the big stuff (as long as it was clean and makeable) would be everyone's favorite, up to the point where it's too damn scary or too difficult to launch over the top of the lip. Thinking about surfing North Shore again in '05, got me thinking about how when it's big and clean it's still damn scary, even though I've had worse wipe-outs and gotten worked worse in smaller stuff. Of course in the heavy, bigger swells I'm working extra hard to stay out of the danger zone. Then in Hawaii too there's those days where it starts out fun and playful then goes suddenly to insane in the span of a single session. Those days, where you see the horizon lurching upward like some prehistoric sea monster ... and there's a bigger one out past that ... ... no thanks!

But for pure fun, for run out and charge and have a big grin on your face the whole time, I'm perfectly happy in surf of a much less critical nature. I don't feel like I have to prove anything to anyone by surfing the biggest, baddest waves out there. I like it when it gets to be about 6 foot faces, big enough for speed and juicy enough for gouging turns without serious consequences. Ten foot faces make a nice challenge without being too critical (again, as long as it's clean and the crowd doesn't impair the break). Waves that might peter down to little boostable foam banks are fun too. Anything around 15 foot faces and I'm spending a lot more time thinking about escape zones, rips and channels, and whether that guy flying down the face in front of me is going to go spinning out of control in the next instant. We don't get that kind of size with clean conditions all that often though, at least not in summer. Summer surf around four foot faces can be really fun though, too. I think as long as you can tap into some power and feel the wave's momentum moving you right along, it's all good.

dm

You and I like the same conditions we'd do well on a surf trip together looking for the same set up. I love fast curving walls that allow lots of options. I mean one wave you work the lip, the next you drive out and round house, it is all a matter of the canvas that is put in front of you. If I have to think about my turns, position, crowds, or the fear factor then it just turns off the pure joy of flowing with the wave. I'm not one to lose sight of pushing the envelope, I'm just responding to Darcy's thread. 8 foot max to keep the joy factor going.

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Im a 4 to 6 person mostly based on equipment and the fact my favourite breaks are at their best at this height

When i get my dream board (now i know more about board design) id be happy to eight feet.

Dream board - 6.1 tri/thruster rounded pin, concave and vee, sky blue - Friar Tuck or Flash Point - hard call the brand -


dorje

it's funny how cutthroat and mean people can be when it's small and also amusing how polite people become when it's big. i like surfing all sizes of waves and the shape and "hollowness" factor is more important than size to me.
if i could dream up a surf spot it would be a perfect point with rights on one side , lefts on the other. sand bottom. hollow but with cutback sections and with consistant 10-15' faces. and not too long so i would'nt have to paddle far. and of course all of the Hawaiian Tropic swimsuit models on the beach oohhing and ahhing over my every ride.

Darcy and Jon are right on target...big enough for speed and an unlimited 'dance floor' but not so big that I'm worrying about how I can haul my ass out of the water at the end of the session.

Jon & I are really lucky to live in Santa Cruz County. Our area offers so many great point breaks that KBing big waves is a fairly easy thing. And we have a high consistency factor; it seems that there is always something to ride no matter what time of year.

I also have to factor in the fitness level when looking at what size of wave to ride. I only get in the water maybe once a week if I'm lucky so I have to use my head to scope out what type of waves to ride. I can't just pop out at Moss Landing in huge winter surf any time I want...unless I'm in full 7 day a week training mode - which ain't going to happen these days.
Its difficult to make a living and support a family of 5 as a 51 y/o pro KBer......

Tough question. I'm a bit like Beeline. But I'll gladly take 5-8. There is no monogamy when it comes to riding... waves!

Right now I'm very out of shape, but I still put down 12-16 foot as my vote. Enough to kick your ass, not to big to pull in. Fun stuff.

I feel similar to Ler. I checked the 12-16' face box. I have been out in up to about 20-25' faces when the shape is good. I do really enjoy the 8-16' face range especially around here in Huntington because it will really thin the crowd out. Also the challenge and heart pumping adrenaline is quite a rush..... The side current is a big factor here so once it passes the 10' face mark your experience as a waterman (or woman) comes into play for the wave positioning. I love the excitement .... Barrels of any size are really what I enjoy... size is cool but the tube.....ahhhh..... thats where it is at for me. but whatever keeps you smiling enjoy it

I would be very happy with glassy peaky 8-10 foot faces.For me at my age its all about shape.I have had my days of 20 foot Wedge and huge Point.I still need the juice but I would gladly give up a couple feet for primo glassy peaks.

I'll third what Ler and Barry have stated. There is some thing about the 12'-18' range that lets me feel like I can do what ever I want on a wave. It's big enough to get your heart rate up but not quite big enough to make you truely pay the price for going for it.

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