How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:16 am

That is one of my favorite spots.A bit further but worth the drive.
It was a bit wonky out here on the north reefs 2-3 times OH.WAy too high a tide,backwash was twice as bad as cronkhite

And that's bad

Wind was on it early.
Today it's offshore[perfect conds]A few ft. smaller,and if the conds prevail the ebb should produce some good surf right down to the bottom.
The sharky spot up further is producing-perfect sandbar,Large chunks of whale blubber ]100+lbs] still floating around the area.....

cheers

stemple · Post by **stemple** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:52 pm

I was a witness. Don will be modest but his wave at OB on Sunday was likely TOH

He was so far out on the outside sand bar judging size was difficult, but my jaw dropped as I sam him drop into the outside beast. Not only did he make the drop but powered into a bottom turn and snapped a wicked cut back in the pocket. Dropped again roundhoused off the shoulder and kicked out. Looked outside at the monsters about nail him and started diving for the bottom! The next four waves that nailed him were of equal size or bigger than the wave he rode. In fact I didn't see him pop up until the set had passed. Watched him get tumbled a couple more times by the next waves whitewater. He was bit shook up when I met him on the beach.

He was riding a 5'10", maybe size doesn't matter!

Don · Post by **Don** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:03 pm

Syd,

I think I'll be putting my 6'3 in the water more now. I gotta tell you for the first time in my surfing history I wanted nothing to do with surfing today. Rattled? YEP!

Thanks for the ego stroke but it really didn't hit me until I drove home. I didn't sleep well either!

OK ... I'm over it.

Dawn patrol tomorrow... best to get back on the horse right?

Cheers,

Don

stemple · Post by **stemple** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 2:24 pm

OB has had a good run lately. I saw BillL on wednesday afternoon before thanksgiving ripping it up at mid beach. He was getting out as I was going in. He had been out for three+ hours!. He said Ed Q was also surfing with him and had just left. It was classic fall head high+ slight offshore breeze and glassy. Interval was mellow so beatings were not too bad.

Just got out of the water today, fun, fun, fun. Head high to odd ball 10 foot sets at mid beach. Sunny day and stronger offshores. Lots of barrels to be had. Saw a standup get a super deep backside barrel. Wish it had been me. Swell interval was coming up. It was predicted to be 4 to 5 foot at 20 secs. Needless to say with that energy and the offshores, lips were definately throwing. Cold though, feet still have not quite warmed up.

It looks like our run is coming to end though, next week it is predicted to get pretty stormy and pretty big. But for now, there still is friday and saturday. swell is to stay in 5 to 6 foot @ 15 secs range.

SFKneelo · Post by **SFKneelo** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:03 pm

Must have just missed you. I was out 11:30-2 at S. VFWs. Three kneelos out. One guy swimming around without a wetsuit. Farkin' (lack of) nuts!
Really fun... bit inconsistent.
DP tomorrow morning? I'm planning on meeting at 6:30 at N-Street... fully suited and throwing a lot of steam. Serious frost on the car this AM. Car reported 35F at 8AM.

surfhorn · Post by **surfhorn** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:18 pm

When Jack O'Neill was a young man, he used to body surf OB all the time - of course, sans wetsuit. Thus the need to invent something to keep himself warm.

He used to have a shop in The Sunset where he ran a line off the gas supply up a wooden telephone pole and would light it off.

surfhorn · Post by **surfhorn** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 1:24 pm

My daughter just called in (1:20PM PST) that Bay Street in Santa Monica has some pretty good surf.....started yesterday evening.

Shelfbreak · Post by **Shelfbreak** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 8:10 pm

There has been some peaky 3 ft waves on the Sunshine Coast for a few days now. Nothing classic but punchy waves under cloudy and rainy skies.

The swell is fairly short wavelength resulting in peaks popping up here and there which is good as it helps share the waves around. School holidays are beckoning and there is a armada of kids on boards and boogie boards taking advantage of warm water and fun waves. Spotted one other 'old codger' on a kneeboard yesterday.

Bloody good fun surfing, I can't understand how people drift away from it.

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:33 pm

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:52 pm

Weather cleaned up,wind switched around,the bouys are up there.Gonna be pretty good in the morning.
mid day news had several shots of the lane

A bit fat-wonder what it looked like this evening?I can imagine

That got me pumped,will be a restless nights sleep!

Hey jack! Get better soon....Went through the knee thing two yrs ago.Torn miniscus,painful.more so annoying.Wound up wearing a high tech velcro kneebrace,and it worked great,kept it all quite stationary.Didn't surf my normal routine,but enought to keep the monkey off my back

cheers

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sat Dec 11, 2004 10:11 pm

Kneelos With Access To The Santa Cruz Area:

Some of the early forecasts for later this week, around December 17, are calling for the biggest swell of the winter thus far. Considering last week was pushing 15 foot plus at a number of spots, this could be just so huge!

I'm trying to arrange a cameraman to be on hand for some big wave kneelo filming on Friday afternoon at some appropriate SC spot. Anyone interested in joining me? We need more documentation of large surf being kneeridden, don't you agree?

sharkbait · Post by **sharkbait** » Sun Dec 12, 2004 1:38 am

Scott- keep us posted for Friday. Where are you thinking?
I'm also wondering the spot you wrote so well about...Scott's creek?
Woof!

Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

phils' for lunch????

post

New Swell Coming: Whose On It?