How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

[hart]

where can i see this wave?

0l' lame-arse smokin joe doesn't know how to do it..huh?

now get ready for the Rumble-in-the-Jungle

ha

bruce

PS

mike..so sorry for the upside-down humour

butterfly man

[Smokin Rock]

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[DarcyM]

mike -

I called it at least a 12 foot face, maybe more. It's hard to judge because Bud is leaned way forward, and he's not a big man to begin with, but based on the number of times he could fit on the face is how I judged it. So divide by 2 and call it 6 foot Hawaiian. Still plenty heavy no matter what you call it.
album_showpage.php?pic_id=3167
ain't no 4 footer tho ...

[hart]

now don't go makin promises that you can never keep..

esoterically speakin of course

aloha

sydney satelite

[Smokin Rock]

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[hart]

that pic is about commitment.

you'd have to call six-eight foot.

perspective looks favourable though..

North Shore Gathering 2005 gathers momentum..good on the men and women of energy that are gonna make it happen.

hart

mike..why am i continually reminded of Bob Denver when i read one of your posts?

[Smokin Rock]

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[hart]

superb timing mate..

or should that be timin'

ha

always good



Skip { Frye } (admirer)

umm..denver did get the blonde, eventually..right?

[Smokin Rock]

between you and me, all three. even the old rich broad. (i was drunk)

[hart]

[Eric Carson]

Bee,
If you asked Slater, the Lopez or Hobgood brothers (All Floridians) how big that wave was, and they were in Hawaii, the'd probably say it was 5-8'. Now if you had the same wave here in Florida, the same group would all rave about it being double overhead. Additionally, Florida doesn't really have any type of chanels to help get out to a wave like that. I'm curious how the paddle out was that day.
Bud charges

[fooj]

I hear alot of Hawaii guys saying "plus" or "solid" after their estimation of wave size. Sooo Bud's wave is Solid 5 foot Hawaiian. Solid or plus can mean what you want, like add 4 feet, whatever (haha). Hawaiian style is more than a scientifically proven precision analysis of wave size, it is a gut feeling. You feel it, you know it.

Eric, Rocky pt. is a fairly easy paddle out at this size. Definitely not an infinite wall of beachbreakers. What you do once you get out is what matters.

[red]

Surfed some decent sized waves on Sat at a place called Cowrie Hole on PI. It was Hawaiian 2' but triple overhead for the 2 guys out there (but Simon McShane's not very tall). Thought I'd give a 6' mini-gun I've got a run. In line with current thinking on this site I put some little fins in the thruster (3xG5). Got smacked on the paddle out.
First wave was a shoulder. Hard push off bottom got me a drawn out bottom turn. 2nd wave a bomb. Paddled down the face, got up and went backwards. couldn't get down the face. Got pitched. 3rd wave smaller one. Did some cutties but the board felt really loose. "Bloody small fins", I thought , "Not enough fin."
Came in after that.
Walking up the beach, looked back and saw I only had 2 fins in the thruster. Wasn't a case of not enough fin, but not enough finS!
Blown away that the board went so well with a missing fin.

They're calling last week's swell down here in Vicco as the biggest in 5 years. (It had dropped a fair bit by Sat).
Definitely the biggest summer swell in quite some time.

[Bud]

When we (Jon Manns & I) checked it, we didn't see anything over head high for about 20 minutes.

There were a handful of people hanging on the end of the break. Great waves were peeling unridden towards them. Some caught the last bit of the wave.
When I got to the waters edge a sizeable set (like the one in the pic in question) rolled in. Mostly it was shoulder to head high.
The swell was on the rise with a strong Westerly angle and current running to the channel. (It usually goes the other way due to trade winds)

There is a channel at the end of the lefts at Rocky Point.
There isn't on the rights.
Even when the rights are the only go, it's easier (and safer) to paddle out from that end of the break.

By solid,
I meant just that.....the surf was very solid...ie......strong energy making the water feel more solid.

The surf here can vary in size and power hourly, daily and from swell to swell.
Some big days are relatively soft, some small days pack a mean punch. If you come here with time to just surf, then you can score by just hanging out and waiting for the conditions to change. They usually will and scoring or missing it may mean just 30 minutes difference. Excercise patience.

We also have "micro climate" weather fluctuations within a few short miles apart. Often it blows out on the South side of Waimea while it's perfect offshore on the North side.

This morning I sent a couple lads who are helping on my building project,(one from East London SA, 23 the other from Ulla Dulla Austr., 21, both stand ups) to crack the East side.
They got to their destination as the sun came up only to find it almost flat and light side-onshore into the lefts. They returned saying the new huge swell wasn't hitting on that side.
I made a call to Dave Sears who I know would be in that area getting ready to paddle out and he reported perfect offshore HWN 6' surf just 5 minutes from where the lads had checked.

They were fooled into thinking the whole coast was as they saw.
All they had to do was stop and check the several other breaks near by on their way back and they would have scored it alone for the first hour.
They went back and surfed solid 6' + A frame peaks at the Kahuku Golfcourse. They had to share it with 6 others.......still not a crowd.
Therewere 5 other reefs dishing out good waves within paddling distance.
Some of those are super playful and non threatening.

This place is within walking distance to the Malaekahana camp site.

It's about 15-20' HWN = 30 -40' faces , howling side-onshore,very misty and unpleasant on the beach here. Over there it's clear, sunny, hot, offshore and GOING OFF!
As the tide drops it'll get better all day.

I have the flu so didn't surf.
Gotta finish packing a dozen boards for FED EX delivery tomorrow anyways.

[Smokin Rock]

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