3am,
boke!,
awake!(?)
frick, it 's too early!!!!!
after a hour of toss and turn, up time
what to do,
check b.s. winds,
ok wind good!
buoey 1,
there's swell!
coffe thermous full,
out the door,
full moon in a clear sky says,
race ya to the horizon bra,
park under shade tree at the end of the road and gear up and walk the half mile to the last sands watching the moon turn brown-red as it gets wet before me.
can see sets in the ribbon of reflective moonlight so jump in the water as falsedawn lights the palis,
get a top to bottom pitching , grinding, murdering set on the inches deep inside sandbar and after a pounding slip over it during a lull,
blunder around the Liko's sandbar before can figure where the sets are hitting it right,
it no cake walk and put everything into the paddle and freefall down into the trough and lay into the first starlight wall bottom turnand see the only thing to do is tuck in and see it what it dose.
well the lip pitches over and gives me the almound eye look at the world.
ok that will do piggy
by 7 the first signs of a crowd drives down the beach and i think a dozen slides is enough and surf down the rocks to dry sand and all i give the pips as i pull thechurcills off is,
"SHOULD OF BEEN HERE A HOUR AGO"
chasing moombeams
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Devin, nice post...brings back memories of moonlight surfing. I had a couple of great sessions at Ala Moana bowls in the early 80's before finally giving it up (about to become a father then..too risky a way to play). But that was a great way to get an epic break to oneself with just a friend or two. Glad someone's still doing that on a kneeboard!
whaddya expect - it's moon festival after all:
http://chineseculture.about.com/library ... 093097.htm
A moon wave beats mooncake anyday(erm..night)
http://chineseculture.about.com/library ... 093097.htm
A moon wave beats mooncake anyday(erm..night)
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