yes, we are. glassy waist to shoulder high at OB all week...but oh my the water is cold. yesterday will be my last day of the season without booties. water down to 52
waves in Humboldt today were 6-8 on the face with some 10 footers coming through at the North Jetty with light offshores and lots of wackable sections and the water was a brisk 49 degrees
Dp'd OB this morning. Freezing cold!!!!. Rivera area, 2 to 4 guys, low 40's air, high 40's water!! head high+, long period mixed with shoulder high short period, stuff. Slight offshore and a few barrels to be had. Hit and miss, this morning with a paddle out that earned you a few waves (lost count after 10 duck dives). Got some decent rides. The feet took over an hour to warm back up.
I kept thinking about Mike F in Minn. I can appreciate how knarly that go out must have been. You are my hero man!!! I am such a wimp.
Kellys wasn't working, VFWs was significantly smaller with decent shape and mid beach was overhead with ok shape and odd ball bars throwing significant sections. Sloat was bit mixed up as well. More swell on the way!!!
Right, Syd. Making the paddle out at OB in low 40's/high 40's air/water in shoulder to head high surf puts you way beyond wimp and firmly into the wussie category!
I'll stick to point breaks as much as possible to keep away from wussies like you :-)
Yesterday, SF - north end, four kneeboarders (whats left of the "knee meanies") out in shoulder high perfection. The stand ups couldn't figure it out but the kneelos got it.
The good stand ups were somewhere else. We just want to be alone...
I am sort of kidding about the alone part, sort of...
waist to shoulder high lefts @ Liberate Palestine, waist to shoulder high a-frames @ Hezbollah-EZAK seen shredding, and screamin' same size tubes@ No Kooks/No Kords, locals only!!! water 57 degrees, you have to play the tides......