Will do. Rick will be by today sometime.
After over a week of fun sized waves serious winter style swell arrived.
White water was reaching my beach steps.
Was 15' yesterday, very powerful WNW swell.
Mid to late afternoon only had 10 + - guys out at Sunset.
It looked awesome, with huge A - frames stacked out to sea.
Wind was strong and guys with big (9' +) Brewer guns were getting pitched on take off.
3 good friends washed in complaining they nearly drowned from such.
I saw one poor soul get hung up for a couple seconds at the apex of a huge set wave. He was frantically trying to jump up and down on his board to get over the ledge and drop in. He finally gave up and kicked the board out from under him. The board flew out into space, spinning on it's axis, as he fell back into the lip. He then got launched back onto his board (which was still fluttering in the wind) arse first. He was sitting side saddle on his board as the whole ocean drove them into the trough.
The wave as easy 12 ++ HWN.
Worse... it was the only wave #2 of the set of 8.
GNARLY !
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Today is 6-10', looking rather tame in comparison.
Beautiful conditions. No body surfing out front.
Where is Randiego??
:lol:At least the water was fairly warm,and the rats were in school...Thank god!... 
