yup.....pretty sure it was fooj http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WFznj9XoM4
check the comments on this very interestingly titled vid.
glad ur ok just one question though......where were Moe and Curly?
"This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before." Butt-head
Jeff. Truely gnarly. Glad you made it. Any damage to you or your board? How was the surf?
If I say its safe to surf this beach Captain, then its safe to surf this beach. I mean I'm not afraid to surf this place, I'll surf this whole f@cking place!
You get out by timing the sets and jumping off of the wall. My timing was off. This swell was huge and I think that the set that washed me was a forerunner of the reinforcement swell that was expected. I watched for 30 min before deciding to go out. That is long for the south shore, maybe not long enough for that swell. When I saw the wave I backed up to the wall as far as possible. It was dry there, thought I was safe. Haha. The whitewash was way over my head, deflected off of the wall and swept me off my feet. I was completely submerged and rag-dolled while on the shelf and went over head first, no arms in front. Thought I was dead. I have 2 friends who have nearly died there, both had week + hospital stays. When I landed in the clear blue sea I couldn't believe it. Back in my realm, it was gravy from there. Bruised and scraped knee, foot and hip. Almost healed up now. Board's nose missing about 3 inches, repairable. Sad because that was the only wave I caught of the epic swell. Happy because alive. Humbled to the nth degree...
The best way to get back to land on a day like this is paddling in toward shore about a 1/4 mile where there is another right-of-way.
Last edited by fooj on Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Fooj,
Good to hear you survived.
Proof we don't get smarter older.
I did the same thing a few months ago - "there's a dry rock I can run to if a big set comes" As in your case, the problem is that the dry rock got very wet. I started to get washed off, turned and bailed and thought I had a rock in my future, but somehow didn't and got away with only a damaged rib.
Red