Surf Report 2011

Willy Kelly · Post by **Willy Kelly** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:26 pm

Waves were going off today surf was about 6-8 feet on the face
just me and my stand up surf bro getting the sweetest bowling rights

peace and good waves

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:14 am

A bit smaller here on the north reefs (3-5)Inside the point reyes hook...Swell jumped a bit last night....Fat morning tide,gonna be good on the ebb..

cheers

fishfinger · Post by **fishfinger** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:06 pm

i know a few of us have been keeping an eye on southside hb pier the last few weekends and if it stays the same as its been we are gonna have some fun bowls for the contest...just sayin

Masons · Post by **Masons** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 3:56 pm

Rincon is 3-4' and super fun, not too many guys out at indicator. Surfed for about 3 hours and got 10 really good sets, not bad.

Razor · Post by **Razor** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:04 pm

Yeah I saw those waves this morning at the crack...........Mason

Masons · Post by **Masons** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:12 pm

Did you get out before the high tide? That kinda swamped it between indicator and rivermouth, but atleast its got enough push and size for fun. Tomorrow will be better early

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:54 am

Woooooooooooooo three epic tubes today!

Over head, at least 5-6 seconds long, 3-4 feet deep, one tube was 7-8 seconds, sections just kept breaking in front, made it out of all of them dry! Funny how I couldn't surf a wave for my life in the crap yesterday, but a nice day changes things.

Tubes of the year for me, thank you Lord!

fishfinger · Post by **fishfinger** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:01 pm

right on mike...looks like this weekend is gonna be a show too...there sayin south swell,offshore wind and what month is it...

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:24 pm

Suppose to be a south swell, offshore, walled everywhere, so I was thinking of hitting the Wedge Friday. Who's in?

kbk66 · Post by **kbk66** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:31 pm

not big enough for wedge, HB was really good today

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sat Dec 24, 2011 10:20 pm

Finally, after years of seeing pics of big Ocean Beach, but never trying to get up there and give it a go (that fearsome paddle out!!) I responded today to the siren call of the 10’, 17 seconds SF buoy, and the doublehead plus surf. I took along a 6’8” Shoelkoph gun loaned to me by Barry Baker in preparation for a big day together sometime in the future. The conditions were excellent with groomed offshores at the south end of the beach, some closeouts but other big peaks firing both ways.

I got the advice of one of the locals on where the best rip was forming to attempt the paddle out to join the other dozen or so surfers out at one main peak. I joined a group of three other surfers also wading out and proceeded to begin pushing through steadily heavier lines of whitewater, looking for that big lull and a strong rip to assist me getting out. It was not to be found. For a solid 45 minutes I had to push through about 250 lines of whitewater, wave after wave, some softer, backing off and others with deep power, without ever reaching the outside. I have never paddled so long in my entire surfing life. The other three guys got a bit ahead of me and eventually squeaked through after a half hour of thrashings, leaving me to paddle alone for the final 15 minutes before, very exhausted, I found that lull and pushed through with my last energy out into the clear.

You know how once you get outside on after a grueling paddleout, you just want to sit as far out as possible and catch your breath? That was my situation totally and I didn’t stop until I was about 75 yards beyond the farthest surfer; I regrouped and slowly headed south toward the main peak. Within 5 minutes, and to my surprise, a cleanup set came right at me with everyone inside scratching furiously towards the horizon.

I was sprinting straight out, too, but realized that I was now perfectly positioned for the first well-tapered peak. I spun around and grabbed the right. It was big, I don’t know how big. I set a nice line across the wall after my initial turn and was looking good, but the speed of the wave surprised me and lip just caught me from behind and blasted me. Long hold down, very deep. Came up and took three more of those set waves in the impact zone, the first one holding me down even deeper and longer. Finally pushed myself to the surface, gasping, and seeing many of the others in my same predicament. Not wanting another difficult paddle to return to the lineup, I decided I’d had my experience for the day, heck maybe for the winter, and proned some whitewater in.

I changed at my truck and took a lot more video of emptier waves further south, even more perfect, without a surfer anywhere. I’ll try to make a short video of that eye candy and make it available.

Lord Byron: “those who do not fear the ocean will surely drown, but those of us who fear the ocean will only drown every now and then.”

MikeS · Post by **MikeS** » Sat Dec 24, 2011 11:12 pm

After waiting out the 6+ High tide this am...I paddled out to 8-10' perfect surf just after noon today.Just like Scott ,it didn't come easily at first. Fortunately within minutes I scored two BIG left bombs...GAME ON...For the next 2 1/2 hours myself,Roger Hughes and no more than 6-7 other surfers scored!!...This had to be the best day of the year so far...in total I had anywhere from 10-12 waves..(three of them had me barreled deep and spit out)..like I said"Christmas came early this year!"

wanderer · Post by **wanderer** » Sun Dec 25, 2011 3:14 am

Cyclone swell at the sunny coast queensland 8+
80deg water temp noosa was crazy lines of waves & people
The walk back to the take off point 2 miles crazy days

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Sun Dec 25, 2011 5:55 pm

Surfed a world class break down south with MManners. Long rides, head to overhead, 10 guys out on one point, 15 guys at the other up the coast.
Haven't been there since 1979.
Lots of waves, Merry Christmas.

jdkneelo · Post by **jdkneelo** » Sun Dec 25, 2011 10:13 pm

Mate santa sure delivered here on time. the goldy is 8-10ft and offshore.

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Surf Report 2011

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