Most of the bros headed to OB yesterday.Opted to stay at cron.Wonky in the morning,cleaned up glassy,light OS's after the bottom,HH+on the sets.Close to 4hr session.Handful of bodies in the water...
Akio....I'm north of san francisco.... Santa cruz is 2.5 hrs south of here.` Rumor has it there's been decent waves down there.Not much info from the santa cruisers...No doubt skulking in their little secret hidey holes....
Been surfing the drift last three days.Swell bumped another few ft today mid morning.Solid...clean rights.Going like a small kirra(sort of... )Best it's been in quite awhile.Buoys are 10ft at 14...still coming up...
Smaller in the morning. small,fast,no cutback, straightahead rights.Bigger tide,sets were pushing across duxberry,late morn.was the biggest.Wind shifted around one..turned to shite,but still rideable.Probably go around the corner tom.The swell is dropping.