How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 11:08 pm

Beeline,

Did you get a chance to try out your Flashpoint blue pintail in any of these waves?

Bill,

Sounds like you got some killer surf; way to go!

MWROBERTSON · Post by **MWROBERTSON** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 9:10 am

Took Friday off and absobluely scored some flawless 6-10ft faced Barrels at a beach break south of the border in Baja. Sunny and offshore all day. Some of the longest tubes in a long time.

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 7:04 pm

Just got back from the NS. Here's what happened. 12:30 pm: Pulled up to Ehukai Beach Park, checked waves. Looked small and fun. some sandbar here and there, 20 guys out a Pipe-a light crowd. Nice little peaks up and down the beach from Rockpiles to Rocky Point and beyond. Spotted my pals out at Pipe, decided to go out there. Suited up. 12:40 pm: Walked down the beach, just in time to see a West set come through--there were none this big, and no indication that there were any this big coming through when I had just looked. Jumped in the water, made it out to the line up, no time to say hi to friends as a 6' set with at least 10 waves in it came through. Half the crowd looked white (me included). Where did that come from? I asked my pals if any other sets of that size came through earlier. Answer: no, nothing close. To make a long story short, Busy lifeguards for about a half an hour, 8 foot sets (2nd reef feathering) when I left at about 3 pm. Very West, plenty backwash and very difficult to get into double ups, experts only! Its probably 12 feet by now and very very serious. Sunset looked big as I was driving by, I wouldn't be surprised if its twice the size of Bud's sunset point shot that he took at 2:30.

Bud · Post by **Bud** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 7:33 pm

Uh.....
I took that shot at 12 noon.

Every set after, got bigger.
20 minute lulls.

1 hour later it was solid to 8-10' HWN.

Now (5:12pm) it's easily 10-15' HWN.
A super powerful West swell.
The new swell was overtaking what remained of yesterdays swell.
These faster, stronger waves were absorbing the smaller ones, making for extremely thick double ups.
Back Yards had waves that truly were "just like Pipe".

What can't be shown in pictures is the incredible power in these waves.

Conditions were flawless until 4:pm then it blew out.

There's still a pack out at Sunset as I write.
Most of them are stuck behind the West peak paddling for their lives and getting mowed.

Here's the official forecast............

SURF ZONE FORECAST
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HONOLULU HI
300 PM HST MON DEC 20 2004

OAHU-
300 PM HST MON DEC 20 2004

HIGH SURF WARNING FOR THE NORTH AND WEST FACING SHORES

Surf along north facing shores will rise to 10 to 15 feet late this afternoon, and to 30 to 40 feet with occasional higher sets tonight through Tuesday.

Surf along west facing shores will rise to 6 to 10 feet late this afternoon and to 15 to 25 feet tonight through Tuesday.

Surf along east and south facing shores will be 2 to 4 feet today through Tuesday.

Outlook through Sunday Dec 26. The west northwest swell will put warning level surf along north facing shores through Thursday. Even though this swell may be partially blocked by the island of Kauai, surf heights along west facing shores are expected to be near the warning level of 20 feet Tuesday and Wednesday. The surf will likely remain above the advisory level of 15 feet along north facing shores Friday.

Surf heights are forecast heights of the face or front of waves.

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 7:43 pm

Oops, 12:30 photo. Typo Bud. Its probably 4X the shot or more by now, yeah? Thanks for the explaination of the double ups. That is exactly what it was doing, smaller front wave with a larger one on its heels ready to break. A hopover for madmen. heavy.

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 8:29 pm

Now I got it. 12 noon photo, 2:30 post. yeah yeah time for glasses and some thought process pills. Anyway, my point was that it came up fast and is still rising. A gentle reminder of what the NS can deliver, as if the last 10 days haven't been enough. Must be cautious. Now, where to surf tomorrow...

Bud · Post by **Bud** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 9:08 pm

2:30pm was the time for the mainland..............
It was 12:30pm here.

Puena Pt. will be good.

Mokuleia maybe....but it's such a strong West angle it might miss there.
I remember taking the KBG-03 crew out there when Sunset and Pipe were huge and West like this.
It was barely 4-5'!?

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 9:30 pm

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Fri Dec 31, 2004 9:19 am

local buoys,11.3@13 not bad.wind is NE [offshore] med high tide,mid afternoon-will break till dark.The reefs are good[pic of the day]the kitty pool has morning sickness,but the channel right will be fun at higher tide.The crowds will be spread out.
We may have a KB gathering if the doc[strange]comes down from his mountain-is two considered a gathering?]
Looks like a classic new years eve surfarama--cheers to all,a great 05 coming up
Fergot !the cousins are already there! a belated one for down there

K

stemple · Post by **stemple** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:22 pm

Grey, overcast, and drizzle today.

More rain thursday into the weekend

No wind to light offshore;

Head to head+ high, inconsistent set waves with smooth faces

Could smell the burgers being cooked at the Chalet

Fricken cold water
Wearing 1.5 mill t-shirt under my 4/3 and hood

Serious warm water envy

Can't wait for NSG 05'

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:29 pm

Don · Post by **Don** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 8:59 pm

This is silly... OB is like dating a woman (with all due respect on multiple fronts

)

We looked at the entire beach at 6:30 AM (Bob, Scott, Don) and the tide was just coming off the 6' high at 5:30 ish. It's always good to see Scott and well, Bob I probably see too oftern (for the right reasons

)

Ruby (my dog) enjoyed the left over crustacians and acted like a complete lunatic as we watched the sun try to light the sky but the heavy grey clouds kept it subdued until about 7:00. By the time we could really see it didn't look too good. This was Scott's second skunk in 4 days.

I made the comment that it would probably turn on about 10.

We departed and went our seperate ways....

1:00 - Don - "Bob, this is Don. Where are you?"
Bob - "I'm at the usual" I drove the stretch and it's classic conditions but hard to tell what bar to surf.
Don - "I'm 15 minutes out. Give it another look mid beach... I'll meet you there"

We were in the water about 1:40 trying to find "THE" bar. We got about as good of conditions as we could. Sets were 8' on the face, beautiful lighting - grey sky with sun pouring through clouds giving the water a green Indo look and sets every 10 minutes. Bob took out the 6'0 Pintail... I took out my 5'10 fish (ole faithful). We surfed a peak by ourselves for 45 minutes and scored extremely fun, user friendly hollow OB. A couple others paddled out but drifted north leaving Bob and I alone again.

I had one of the best tube rides of the season... "one of those time is standing still" rides.

This is really silly... how many days can this continue???? I mean even the stormy rainy days are good!

Scott, sorry about the dawn patrol.... just one of those things with the tide and it took Bob and I a half hour of hunting mid-day to find ther right bar.

Moral is ... when looking for a good bar, if you show up too early you won't get served

D

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:32 pm

Well gee, Don, thanks for the update. No surf for me this morning, but a "time stands still" type o' barrel, eh? "Lighting like Indo" eh? The whole peak just to you and Bob, eh? Hmmm.....I'm, like, REALLY, REALLY HAPPY FOR YOU BOTH!!

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How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

Baja Malibu

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