Ask the Shaper (or Anyone who wants to answer) (Vol. II)

What works & what doesn't and in what type of conditions. Got a "secret" only you and your shaper know???? Post it here... we can keep it quiet ;-)

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hart
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Re: Rain drops keep falling on my head

Post by hart »

headwax wrote:
And the spray job. (soemthing simple, like the Last Judgement)

Any trouble with acrylic paints running?
wax

acrylic lacquers don't run (Dulon and Wattyl) on the foam or fillercoat (US hotcoat).

remember that the 'Last Judgement' had perfect perspective and was a fresco (?) .. :oops:

and finish your blank with the shaping gauze that I so hope you used for your rails.. :)

and just hold the stuff (like sheet) on the bottom of a block that has SPONGE on it.

you could do more..but if ya get this close it will be goood.

:D

hart

:wink:

this is so worth a schooner (OZ)..ha
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scoop
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Post by scoop »

though Bruce......
A Coopers Red im sure...

not just any "schooner"....

lol

Tony

(Wax .,.. no worries matee....just something I picked up on by reading all the posts)

Tony
Love that "greenroom" feeling...(don't panic I finally found it)..... good ole' winki on a good day
DrStrange
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Post by DrStrange »

Oddly enough, the blue stain came out looking like the face of Mary (magdelane) and I am thinking of selling the unglassed blank on e-bay.
Don't sell it!!!! Put your ear real real close and I bet she has messages to whisper that only you can hear. Charge admission and you can make a fortune channeling the Magster for the Masses (maybe a special Mass)!
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hart
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Re: Doctor Strange but true

Post by hart »

headwax wrote:
Anyone used a aspray on clear acrylic instead of a gloss coat with good results?
Clear acrylics can be used but they won't 'lose' any sanding scratches..in fact it will hilite them.

Most OZ boards are still using acrylic finishes (like Terry Cooper's Protech) but this type of clear acrylic has a flatting agent (think matt) added so that things like scratches (and other imperfections) are not readily visible.

Should you wish to use a spray technique which gives a shiny finish rather than using a conventional glosscoat, then OZ companies will use a two-pack polyurethane..(this is used frequently by hi-tech fin makers/suppliers like Fluid Foils..so much easier than glosses and polishes).

In either case, I suggest the simplest way to achieve a 'finish' on a homemade product is in fact not to finish it at all.

Once it is sanded..go surf it

:lol:

hart

Happy Holidays to all
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hart
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(like prawnshells in hubcaps)

Post by hart »

Ummnn

probably yes..

but you'd have to talk to someone around 1972 that thought they were of interest (even) then.

:)

Australians are (always) a law unto themselves..

hart

as we all indeed are

PS

As Artis once subtitled an advert.."Don't go home with a clone"

PPS

Terry Fitz paid for it
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hart
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i always thought that flipper was a dolphin

Post by hart »

pivot points can exist in a variety of places.

in the 70's, Ben Aipa would introduce stingers (outlines) and steps (bottoms) to create pivot to otherwise 'static' bottom curves and planshapes.

nowadays, Kyle Bryant's "direction-change" outlines work the same way..that is, a distinct break in the planshape to provide the surfer with a pivot point should they choose to use it.

the apex of your bottom curve will also introduce a pivot point (hopefully, subtley) and is the basis of my 'spiral vee' ideology..that is, point of release = pivot.

the actual position of your widepoint will also create pivot..cause its hard (rediculous) to try and turn forward of your widest point. It is essential that the position of the widepoint is tuned to the riding style and technique of the surfer for this very reason.

hart

PS

but given some very pointed posts (elsewhere) about Australians that don't use swimfins and the compensatory elements we introduce to our boards as a result..then perhaps I am just mis-guidedly blinded with flipper envy.. :wink:
red
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Post by red »

Is pivot desirable?
I guess it's personal but I prefer equipment where you can power in and continue powering through turns. Smooth, continuous drive where the wrinkles on my face start to smooth out and skin collects at my ears!

But even the smoothest outlines have pivot points - one at each pointy end and ones at at the centreline of fin foil
Question is, do they act together to create a "virtual" pivot point somewhere between the points that are active at any given time?
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ross
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Post by ross »

i usually drop about 9 or ten inches of flat planing area starting around 3" forward of the wide point into my small wave boards (6' down to 5'9")
compared to most of the boards i've had shaped by other guys which average about 2-3" planing area.my widepoint on these boards is 3" back from centre, which sounds a fair bit different to you guys.they seem to go pretty fast although i think most guys would find them hard to turn.(i'm 90 kg so i canstil turn em ok)
i've swapped boards with kyle before and have felt this "break" in the planshape.its easy to see it has alot to do with his ability to climb white water the way he does.
its such a can of worms.it seems like the more you find out about design the more confusing it gets.
i dont know what the pivot point is in my boards but i know when i'm doing a solid bottom turn i get to a point where i feel the inside fin take control and its almost like the board is turning from that inside fin.is that my pivot point?
i should mention here that i ride thrusters.my dad always made my boards when i was young so i've had plenty of oppurtunity to experiment
i remember once he made me a lazor zapp style board(think geoff mccoy)
wide point 5" back, huge big bum tail,ugly as sin but it went unreal.i even conned wayne hutch into making one for me(wayne likes to make minor adjustments through each new board,as you should,so you can imagine how much he loathed it)
isnt it great how diverse our designs are?you can see why i lay of the design forums i just start raving.especially with a skinful of coopers!gaaarrgh!!
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