of what i spoke
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- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
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of what i spoke
been trying to shorten turn radius while retaining power and some projection. there are days here when the board keeps outrunning the hook so i'm trying to tighten the arc it flows on. comments? its a mrx with the rusty c5 forward as a trailer in a blast round pin. still waiting for surf to try it in.
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- fooj
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Maybe it's more than just the fins.
Changing the fin set-up only can help so much. Maybe you need another board, one with some fliers to break the water tension along the rails. That would probably tighten the turning radius.
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you know those damm popsicles kept cracking when i turned down the screws...and yes i'd love a new board but decided to push this one over the design edge....remember this is the BIG EAST...home to syracuse nat'l champs...and we do things in a big way...rode this blast skegless this summer just to see how much innate rail hold there was.. did a sliding 360...have already ridden it as a twin fin so we'll see how it behaves.
- fooj
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Did you ride it yet?
Have you ridden your popsicle nubs yet? My stand up friend makes these cool fins that George Downing originally developed called the Mahi or Ahi fin (my friend calls it the bong tip). It's and almond shaped piece of glass attached onto the end of the fin and kind of works like keelfin. I bet it would make those popsicle sticks drive a little harder. I'll see if I can get a picture for you. I ride them on my thrusters and love them. Wonder if they would work on a quad.
- fooj
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Ahi Fin
Here's the Bong Fin on a G2, for mackin' days. I use the one on a GX much more.
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- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
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all points well taken and well understood by me. prob with the "plug" system is the lack of fore n aft movement, yet even within the fixed removable set up there are different fin size shape stiffness to try. what is not obvious in what i posted is the type of wave field i had in mind for this set up. there are times here in the east when the board is naturally projecting too far out of bottom turns onto a shoulder that is too soft to allow effective cut backs. you want to have the board "run" and respond smoothly and quickly to rider intent. i'm well aware that the aussie tri set up is probably what is called for and i've ridden the pictured board as a twin and even with no skegs. with the quad type fin placement(no trailers) the "twin" easily over-rotates which is a hoot on days you just want to play so the idea of the "popsicles" was to add a little "sauce" so to speak and see if they made an effective difference by giving the board a better feel in those weak waves. fortunately we've had a run of really good surf(for us) so the project (quad in slop) is on hold. all this will give me a much better idea of what i might want if i order an aussie style tri. (maybe i'll get a mat for those days instead and concentrate on having fun!)
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take a simple proceedure ( transferring fin area forward and changing the rake depth flex and thickness of fixed fin placement to see how it changes an existing board) hand it over to the dr's of design and voila major surgery is called for. which begs the implied question. FCS markets their system on instant change. "change the fins, change the board" is it hype or reality. can radical behavior changes in an existing shape be induced by swapping fins? if so can the change be predicted? i've predicted tighter turn radius and managable tail slide(popsicles) with some drive. not your classic discription of a quad. what i most relish is what unexpected things will actually happen in the water.
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Modifying FCS
FCS plugs need to be right when the board is built. But in order to get some flexibility we've been putting in 2 sets of plugs - one a forward fin setting the other a "back" This gives you a fair bit of play.
You can change to fins with for or less leading edge rake to move the centre of the fin back or forward. You'll notice that rusty's are more upright than merricks, so change the turning radius of the board a fair bit.
It you're up to it, you can get a chunk of stiff plexiglass and cut your own fins. just follow one of the fins as a template , but move the position of the tabs back or forward, to suit your design modification.
You can change to fins with for or less leading edge rake to move the centre of the fin back or forward. You'll notice that rusty's are more upright than merricks, so change the turning radius of the board a fair bit.
It you're up to it, you can get a chunk of stiff plexiglass and cut your own fins. just follow one of the fins as a template , but move the position of the tabs back or forward, to suit your design modification.