Who Are these Kneelos From 1979?

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Damien o
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Bit fuzzy

Post by Damien o »

Headwax

Look I am really not sure but around that time I was doing a bit of surfing using a single fin and had hair that shape with a beard ... lived in the beasties suburbs ... surfed Bondi, Bronte, Maroubra (occasionally) ... it might be me ... but just a likely might not be me

Still, I loved the HB kneeboard ... It bought back great memories of Steve Artis shaping a board for me, nice shot of PC and I recall meeting John O'Neill (same last name as mine and my father's first name ) and really enjoyed your post ...good luck :) cheers Damien
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Post by Headwax. »

Hi Damien :)

thanks for the positive response. :) Artis made great boards eh?
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Post by Headwax. »

Just spent a few days learning how to use Windows Movie Maker.

It's simple but not so simple. Like using a left handed oyster shucker to cut down an acre of bitou bush.....

Consequently the editing is a bit jumpy and I ended up with slow motion parts that I didn't want.
C'est la vie.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDhsxsRbMGU


About the video.

The first part is a few shots of one of our Maroubra Kneeboard Contests circa 1978.

Parkes and Terry Day only have one wave I'm afraid. The rest were of me so I cut most of them out. On the beach is a small crew. Glen Perry
on megaphone (of course). Bottom left you'll see a young John O'Neil sitting on the sand. One of the dark haired guys on the right could be
Chris Eliftherious who went on to be a well known surf photographer in the early eighties. Terry Day is standing on the beach in the last group shot clutching his "Gull" surfboard.

Maybe someone out there can tell me who the other guys are.

The board I'm riding is my second Hot Buttered, custom shaped by Steve Artis. Double flyer rounded pin with a huge centre fin. Vee to double
concave (?) to tail vee. Great seventies Terry Fitz Hot Buttered rails, very down railed at the front and wonderfully thick under the chest to get that nice seventies foil. The board went well at eight to ten foot Indjinup Carpark but was a little too gunny for small Maroubra Beachbreak.

One of the interesting things about these few waves is that they show the difference in riding styles at the time. The Hot Buttered being driven from the tail and down the line, with Parkes and Day having wider boards, the former being predominantly ridden from the centre.Terry is looking for that lip. As a down the line surfer I'm looking for the end of the wave.

The next part of the video is one of my heats in the 1979 Sitmar Cruises. Here I'm riding a home made steptailed twin fin fish that weighed a
tonne (two layers eight ounce top and bottom plus a knee layer) with plywood fins (not keels) in boxes. I made two of these boards as a
batch, one slightly wider than the other, just before my 21st birthday. I got to ride them at Noosa for two weeks of prefection as their breaking in period.:). The board appears to be reasonably fast, but turns very flat. (Sorry about the slow motion sections in this - was an accident)

The Sitmar Contest was held at North Maroubra, in front of the Stormwater Drain just south of what we used to call the Colliseum. (Every inch of Maroubra had a name - toilet bowl, stormwater drain, collesum, summersheds, south maroubra, the reef, the left into the rip at the reef
etc) The Colleseum was this strange concrete pillared shelter about twenty feet high and about eighty feet long that was built jutting out from what once must have been a cliff face. The place was infested with rats and other vermin. The picture of Albert was taken by Chris Elfes standing on the the top of the Colliseum. The picture is particularly haunting because Albert (as were a whole bunch of kneelos) was a fixture in this place when we were kids and car-less.. You can see the silhouette of the stormwater drain over Albert's shoulder.

As far as the contest itself memory tells me that there were 30 invitees to this contest and there were just under a hundred guys in the surfout. I've got a lousy memory though. The format was man on man for all or some of the contest.

The last Section is of myself (sorry) riding the same board at the North Maroubra Toilet Bowl. The tide is a bit high but you can the guess how the wave breaks. Suprisingly in 1979 there was already agro agro in the water. From the video you can tell it is every man for himself as far as drop ins. Ironically the other kneelo in the water runs over a guy who tried to drop in on me.

The "Toilet Bowl" break is at the very north of Maroubra beach and ia right hander that breaks into the rip that runs along the side of the
rocks. Maroubra myth tells of the beachie who, on crowded summer Sundays, used to grab himself a very long sturdy piece of bamboo and tie a noose on the end. He would sit on the rocks and pluck the swimmers out of the water as they were caught in the rip and taken out to sea.

Apocraphyl? Don't ask me. ;)

This part of the beach was often surrounded by rocks. We used to surf here in the days before legropes and get the waves to ourselves. As the
crowds built up in the next few years we took to night surfing. The place was a natural ampitheatre where the streetlights on two sides would
make it possible to almost see your mate in the water so you wouldn't run him over. You could tell when the sets were coming because suddenly
the ships on the horizon would all dissapear, and you'd be left staring at the green phopspherescence on the ocean floor wondering wether it was going to be a right, a left or a straighthander.

Or there was always the alternative at the bottom of the page:

For this seequence and the Sitmar one I had no idea my father was there, let alone filming me surf.

The film is very grainy because of being posted on the net but it will give you a glimpse into how guys were riding in the late 70s and, you never know, you might even see yourself.

I hope you enjoy it.

cheers

HW


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KAVA
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Post by KAVA »

kewl mickey mouse ears
"Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air… "
-Ralph Waldo Emerson
6'1", dean cleary tri, 6'0 Flashpoint tri, 5'9 chuck dent (epoxy quad), 9' velzy (single fin triple stringer)
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Post by K-man »

Well done wax,'Historical and personal,and pertinent to both sides of the equator

cheers!
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headwax

Post by gene west »

Headwax....great post!!!!
geno
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Post by mutiny »

Headwax nice footage on youtube 8) it's cool to see you, terry day and parkes surfing back then! The footage at the begining of your movie, the color of the water and sky and clouds is great.
I met Terry Day in jan 81' when I lived in Coogee! He ripped on a kneeboard back then! I've got some wonderful super 8 footage of him kneeriding the bombie at coogee, the left in front of the cliffs on the north end and at Catherine Hill Bay, and some good water shots of him at Banzai when we hung out for 6 months and surfed the coast. I'd like to one day transfer the footage like you did!
Visited him again in 86 and he was stand up surfing :lol: running a surf shop up on the gold coast.
I remember being in the car early one morning going round the bend at Kirra on a good swell and seeing terrys unmistakable blazing red head driving down the line on a killer wave! he was a great stand up surfer too!
Terry became an ASP judge and travelled a lot late mid 80's early 90's and would hang out in Huntington beach with me when the OP was in town.
Terry was always laughing and ready for a good joke
he was great guy
sadly I've lost contact with him :cry:
Perhaps when I'm ready to transfer terrys footage I could PM you and ask for your assistance on how to put stuff on you tube.
tom
p.s. if you go into the photo album section and in the search window choose, Picture Name, and then type, terry day, you will see 5 water shots i took of terry kneeriding back in 81' :D
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Post by Riq dekneelo »

Well done Headwax :D
Great post and shots of that beach. I was living in the 'Gong at that time, up behind Mt Kembla, don't think I got to the sitmar contest that year, can't remember :?
Maroubra looks as I remember it tho...
If you ever want to try out your boards again at Noosa.....Love the subliminal images of other boards in the clip. Were there some pete berry fantasies in there somewhere?
cheers mate. Riq
:lol:
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change the only constant or the board is not the limitation
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Post by Headwax. »

Gooday :)

great day here in Newie, sadly missing one major ingredient :(

Kava .... yes we weren't the moat attractive men in those mickey mouse ears. Then again, they made us look good when we took them off !!!

Thanks for all the positive responses! Much obliged that someone else can anjoy a little (if fuzzy) glimpse of the past. The original footage is much clearer (well as good as eight mill ever was :( ) Lucky to have a father who cared enough...

Mutiny ... thanks for the info on Terry Day, amazing how there is less than six degrees of seperation in the kneelo world. You or Riq ever see another red haired guy out in queensland ripping on a mal (only early in the morning cause of lack of skin pigment) it could be Jeff Sales ex kneelo extraordinaire!

Mutiny . No problem to give you advice on Windows Movie . Would be fantastic to see that old footage!!!!

And Riq

I always liked my fingers too much to go near Peter Berry's boards!

(just a coward I guess)

Cheers again.

HW :)

PS Damien was that you in the end??
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Post by surfwx »

Mr Wax,

Great post, a big thanks for putting the time in to make it all available.



ps "using a left handed oyster shucker to cut down an acre of bitou bush..." you crack me up :lol: :lol:
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Post by Headwax. »

many thanks surfwx :)

had a nice little shorey at Burwoood this am.
No one else out but me and the blue bottles.

Have soemthing else lined up in the vid department but youtube tells me I contain no data ?? :(

Maybe I will need that oyster shucker after all!

cheers

HW :)

BTW thanks for supporting the Novos!
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Post by surfwx »

HW,

More vid, can't wait! (youtube is a right pain at times. If you have too much trouble give me a yell and I'll stick it on my server, got a bit of spare bandwidth atm)

Was hoping to make the comp on Sunday but ended up spending the weekend at Seals (mother in law is over from WA and wanted to show her it before she goes back later this week)

Talking to Rob at Newy this morning (giving him poo about missing the Cowrie Hole the other morning :D ) said he's joined the club! I'm going to join as soon as Simmo drops round the form, that was going to happen in mid 2005......still waiting Simmo...... :lol: ).
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The Path Less Travelled

Post by Headwax. »

thanks for the kind offer surfwx but finally got it going....

joining the club. Great :!: Those cold winter mornings :)

I can see Mel rubbing his hands together!!

the clip itself is here

Its not a Frost Poem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddakOOGsT14

cheers

HW
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Re: The Path Less Travelled

Post by surfwx »

Headwax. wrote: the clip itself is here
Put me down for 5 stars. :!:

How many hours did you put in to get it all together. Another job well done. Big thanks again HW.

Shark off Merewether this morning. Someone said yesterday the beach was closed as well, any details anyone??
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Post by Headwax. »

surfwx

much obliged for your kind words

that video took five hours but I had fun though I should have been puting brush to canvas. Always a pleasure to learn a new skill. Given another 5 hours I would have had the beats in time with the graphic changes... but I am so impatient! The hardest thing apart form playing the piano and the flute at the same time was getting the words "all time loser" not to land in the wrong place. In the end Greenough got it. Sorry George. :(

Shark? Did you say shark? I hate that word shark. :shock: Ddidn't see it at Burwood this morning. Then again, I was the only one out ..... ;)

cheers again

HW :)
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