Attempting going flipperless...suggestions?
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skansand
- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 10:27 am
- Location: orange county
hmm..i didnt know Gavin surfs 30' faces in puerto!!??...ive only seen that one pic when its like 8'??.....i actually remember him telling me he couldnt turn his 7'6 so he stopped riding it...so now hes riding a 6' 8?/6'10? with more volume that he says works much better....,,,but my memories are kinda hazy....fill us in gav
Tide is the master, tide can be a disaster...-Dub side of the Moon
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ocean7847
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
- Posts: 196
- Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 12:48 pm
- Location: behind the curtain
watch out for those 4' clean up sets - don't want you getting hurt down there!
EQ - couldn't agree more with the whole "can i swim back in by myself" mentality, and I think you'd love this story. i was down in Nicaragua and just shooting the shite with a few of the other guys staying at the camp. turns out some of them were from Manhattan beach, some from point dume (this was when i lived in the LA). i told them a ridiculous story i read on the surfline "local knowledge" section, where someone had written in to surfline with the following tale (or close to)
"Dear Surfline,
Just wanted to write in a big thank you to whomever it was that helped me in at el porto the other day. My leash broke and I was having swimming in, so a nice surfer pulled me onto his board and paddled me in. Thanks again!"
and i went to check the surf report for the day of the 'incident' - which was head high el porto. not a couple feet overhead or maxing out el porto, just shoulder to head high. i thought it was the perfect example of what was wrong with people who paddled out these days - if you can't control yourself out there, how are you qualified to handle yourself and a piece of foam and glass that can injure you and anyone else out there?
anyway, i told this story and one of the guys got really quiet/redfaced/sulky. apparently, it was HIM.
it was an akward rest of the week.
edit: funny - i had to edit it to read "shite" because the word SH I T apparently triggers the "GOOD WORD" replacement because its foul language. ironic how a thread about religion gets locked and GOOD WORD is the admin choice for *censor*. but we all know how much i hate jesus.
EQ - couldn't agree more with the whole "can i swim back in by myself" mentality, and I think you'd love this story. i was down in Nicaragua and just shooting the shite with a few of the other guys staying at the camp. turns out some of them were from Manhattan beach, some from point dume (this was when i lived in the LA). i told them a ridiculous story i read on the surfline "local knowledge" section, where someone had written in to surfline with the following tale (or close to)
"Dear Surfline,
Just wanted to write in a big thank you to whomever it was that helped me in at el porto the other day. My leash broke and I was having swimming in, so a nice surfer pulled me onto his board and paddled me in. Thanks again!"
and i went to check the surf report for the day of the 'incident' - which was head high el porto. not a couple feet overhead or maxing out el porto, just shoulder to head high. i thought it was the perfect example of what was wrong with people who paddled out these days - if you can't control yourself out there, how are you qualified to handle yourself and a piece of foam and glass that can injure you and anyone else out there?
anyway, i told this story and one of the guys got really quiet/redfaced/sulky. apparently, it was HIM.
it was an akward rest of the week.
edit: funny - i had to edit it to read "shite" because the word SH I T apparently triggers the "GOOD WORD" replacement because its foul language. ironic how a thread about religion gets locked and GOOD WORD is the admin choice for *censor*. but we all know how much i hate jesus.
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SFKneelo
I've given my board before to another at OBSF and swam in the 200-300 yrds myself... slowing down to make sure they were OK. I have been in many situations that made me think for looking for help.
There's scales beyond what I've experienced.
In other words, I agree it goes for all of us.
I'm backing your agreement Ocean. EQ has stated a golden rule.
BUT, fins will buy you an extra foot or two!
Besides, 4WD works well with keeping position amidst the rips...
There's scales beyond what I've experienced.
In other words, I agree it goes for all of us.
I'm backing your agreement Ocean. EQ has stated a golden rule.
BUT, fins will buy you an extra foot or two!
Besides, 4WD works well with keeping position amidst the rips...
Today I am almost flipperless/finless and kind of sad.
After a fun morning high tide session on my Lis style fish, taking off my fins in the water (so much for looking cool Geno) I lost them. Yep, the old nonfloating, flexible, ever more comfortable, Churchill Makapuus I've had for about 20 years! GONE
swept out of reach by the endless sea
Now I have a pair of old Model UDTs around but I hope they wont take my legs off tomorrow. But at least I'll find them floating around if they do.
After a fun morning high tide session on my Lis style fish, taking off my fins in the water (so much for looking cool Geno) I lost them. Yep, the old nonfloating, flexible, ever more comfortable, Churchill Makapuus I've had for about 20 years! GONE
swept out of reach by the endless seaNow I have a pair of old Model UDTs around but I hope they wont take my legs off tomorrow. But at least I'll find them floating around if they do.
surf with soul
North side of Scripps pier. There was some fun pop up peaky beachbreak. I usually surf there before work.
On weekends, usually Saturday, I go into weekend warrior mode though and usually go surf different breaks. This morning I surfed just north of Grandview up in Encinitas. Figured the reefs would be drowned so tried there instead. Still very high tide but there was a small window as the tide dropped and before the wind shifted from offshore to southerly.
People were getting barrelled left and right on the inside.
On weekends, usually Saturday, I go into weekend warrior mode though and usually go surf different breaks. This morning I surfed just north of Grandview up in Encinitas. Figured the reefs would be drowned so tried there instead. Still very high tide but there was a small window as the tide dropped and before the wind shifted from offshore to southerly.
People were getting barrelled left and right on the inside.
surf with soul
ocean7847 wrote: watch out for those 4' clean up sets - don't want you getting hurt down there!
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the religion thread locked
I always thought s h i t was an anglo word barred by the Normans after their take over of England back in 1042 or around then.
The French word for poo obviously smelt sooo much better
how draconian !
but on the other hand its always good to extend ones vocabulary.
until someone suggest your an f-wit for using big words.
ah...the irony!