i had three boards with me
6'0 swallow tail thruster,
6'2 pin tail thruster
and a 6'9 four finner
lotsa of foam in all of em, all with different bottom and rail shapes. when I left for the trip I was 103kg, two days into the trip i had a photosensitive reaction to the malaria pills i was taking and could not go out into the sun without seeing stars and without feeling like i was going to pass out. very scary. I missed all the good swells, except for 2 or 3 waves at ebay, where i had, had enough of watching my mates getting shacked of their heads...so i just paddled out. only to be pulled up by another boats captain about my eyes rolling in my head. He sent me in he picked it as a malaria pill problem straight away. I stopped taking them and four days later, and the starry eyes slowly went away. I lost 13 kg very quickly on that trip. and hurt my self busting air over the back, and pulled my hip surfing telescopes....
So i only had a handfull of surfs, I rode the swallow tail most of the time and it felt great in the surfs I had.
Really...I had a shocker of trip
but the time of my life
as they say...it was all good
mentawaiis boards
Moderator: Moderator
- feralmick
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:55 pm
- Location: gympie, qld.
G`day Simon, `movie stars`, and all posters.
recently got back into surfing after a 20 year layoff- soaking up info on equipment and different waves wherever i can.
Got to say thanks to all of you for your straight up comments, and to simon for making the dvd. Encouraging me to get fitter so i can travel and surf more, more laid back than you fellows.
Had a lot of questions about boards which most have been answered. Just bought Gavin`s `freak` and rewatched movie several times to compare boards, styles and waves wasn`t fun seeing my new board on the reef. Plan to go over there next winter with `the freak` and a 6`2 tri fin Parkes which loves clean fast breaks.
Unfortunately didn`t see much of Steen in the movie. You are all very impressive surfers with your own styles, but the one who impressed me most is Bill. To me, he rides smooth while continually staying in the sweet spot. cheers folks.
recently got back into surfing after a 20 year layoff- soaking up info on equipment and different waves wherever i can.
Got to say thanks to all of you for your straight up comments, and to simon for making the dvd. Encouraging me to get fitter so i can travel and surf more, more laid back than you fellows.
Had a lot of questions about boards which most have been answered. Just bought Gavin`s `freak` and rewatched movie several times to compare boards, styles and waves wasn`t fun seeing my new board on the reef. Plan to go over there next winter with `the freak` and a 6`2 tri fin Parkes which loves clean fast breaks.
Unfortunately didn`t see much of Steen in the movie. You are all very impressive surfers with your own styles, but the one who impressed me most is Bill. To me, he rides smooth while continually staying in the sweet spot. cheers folks.