Surf Report 2008

[Don]

Mike,

No secret on the location... it's our local beach break. The hour paddle was comprised of 15 to get outside and 45 keeping on the bar and chasing waves.

Makes me appreciate points and reefs that's for sure!

[matt cunningham]

odd indeed

Monday morning saw a rather average size swell on Tanner Banks(8.6 @ 17 from 280) dish out some of the meanest barrels I have seen in a while at Playa Negra...Only 10-12 foot faces on sets, but the whole ocean was shifting, like it was alive...alive......scary music in the background, video of frightened citizens running from teh beast..Raymond Burr perhaps (no too esoteric)

Light crowds

Offshore

I saw Yamo take off and disappear, he told James M it was the best barrel of his life....that is saying something

one of those mornings you scored epic a frames or got your ass kicked, my day was more of the latter, but you pay to play....dropped in on a potential south peak barrel, went out to the flats to square off and a mutant lip landed on my back...ouch..i hobbled up the hill...

I saw Billly's plastic Arizona shoes at the road, but did not see Billy, I bet he snagged a few....

[SamC]

It always seems to be the week before I come back home that a swell comes and then competely dies when I get their.

[southpeakbrad]

Got two days of great waves up North with Gove over the weekend then on Monday saw him walking up the hill as I was walking down. He says "I got waves as big as anything I got over the weekend!" Of course, so did I in a short go out. Five set waves; couldn't quite get around the sections on the 1st 4 then raced the 5th in the pocket all the way from SP to NP

[randiego]

Matt - have heard from several that it was a 5-star morning on monday. I escaped my shackles at work for some afternoon action, and sure enough - got better quality, consistency, size and limited crowd than saturday... sahweet square barrels

[SFKneelo]

Since Tuesday, conditions have improved. Hordes of folks mid-beach. Some peaks working, some not... but better than it's been.

Stellar conditions!

Looks like a change by Monday.

If you're in the area, find a bar before you have to find a bar!

[K-man]

Great conditions over here...no surf,although SS is calling for a slight increase tom.I'm gonna run there for the ebb,unless my beloved cronkhite is breaking...

cheers.

[SFKneelo]

Bruce Topp's photos from yesterday, mid-town...

http://www.spitfirephoto.com/surfhumor/ ... umId=31047

Don and I were slightly North, where the crowds were a bit less.

[Don]

I saw the action yesterday and alterted SFK that we should find a peak down the beach 1/10th the crowd. It wasn't hard to do.

Today I dawn patrolled the photo spot and had 30 minutes of the glory to myself. Air 39, water 50, 12 waves before the rest of the world wakes up... PRICELESS (sorry for the Visa pun but that's who pays SFK to surf).

More tomorrow but EARLIER! SFK (aka the world's slowest person to put on a wetsuit) has promissed to drive up fully suited.

We'll see....

[Mike Fernandez]

Nice waves! Driving up to the beach fully suited is a true luxury

[SFKneelo]

Did you call at 7PM?

I thought you were bagging it.

Yes, yes, it's true. All gear is ready for a faster entry. Unfortunately, the shop of horrors is in the house, and raising questions... concerns.

BTW, 'Priceless' is the slogan for the far-second marketshare concern. 'Life takes DAWN PATROLS!'

All, start reading up on Visa. Change is in the air.

[SFKneelo]

Well...

Don is probably in the car heading North.

It went like this:

- I beat Don to mid-town. Actually, for the first time EVER, I beat Don out to the line-up. Actually, there wasn't anyone out for at least 20 minutes. Then again, it was 20 minutes before light. There was one creepy boil that popped up about 1/2 way out. No splash.

- Caught four waves before he and a footboarder paddled out. One was a right that I thought would total the board when entombment happened. It was now light enough, and the punch was coming into focus.

- Don took pix after we got out, but it'll be awhile before any postings.

- I enjoyed many a yard-sale-wipeout at the end of long barrels. Views, views, views. Got intimate with foamballs. All that, until I got bounced hard at the end of one, and scrambled with my board. Busted a fin at the base, tabs still attached. No repair needed! Just another fin.

- Grabbed the board I probably should have grabbed in the first place and went back out. Saw Don go for a nice air on a right. He was getting plenty of waves! Same deal... lots of long barrels with many ending in demise.

- 34F air when I left. Water was pretty chilly. Cramps were setting in. I'll have some nice bruises!

- Got one last tube at the end to help the stats, and called it good. The hordes were there, and conditions just didn't look as good when Don was snapping pix afterwards.

[surfhorn]

Saturday at 2:30PM there is a -1.25 low tide.

This is nice time to check out the reefs at Pleasure Point and see what you're usually surfing over. For a personal tour talk to Jon Manss.

[ScottMac]

..

[surfhorn]

An hour after low tide a super quick left popped up at the beaches.....and no one on it. Air was warm and no wind.

A Rule of Thumb my wife and I have been following for a many years: always schedule the third week of January off; its usually nice weather and killer waves.