been dog meat around here for too long... Noticed a small south under the wind swell.Made the run to cronkhite.Med,outgoing,glassy,2-4 bigger sets,lefts rights,and a few nasty closeouts.3+ hrs,and a nice slow drive along coast hy 1 to home,and a huge pork roast potatoes,carrots mushrooms.....
Just got back from Kauai with the family. Bud/Blast was on it and shipped me a brand new 6ft. F2k to my friends house in Kapaa. The wife and baby sat in the car and read while I took that thing out in some 4ft ft + crunchy east side baeach break.
We moved on to our resort in Hanelai that evening. The next morning I ran down the path to be greeted to 2-4ft clean lines. Only about 10 out. Everyone was smiling and sharing. It felt great to ride some perfect waves in warm water.
Sounds like a good time was had.Nice island and some really good people!Clean warm water.A small island,and most spots are a fairly short drive.
I'll be there from the 21 till may 16 or longer!Got a bro has a house on the westside;with the bro price...and get to use his mom's car,a beater but it runs.On the cheap,means I can spend more money on good food...
Surfed the Cove at Cape May. Kinda mushy, nothing to speak of other than it's the only spot I know of in the mid-Atlantic that can handle NE winds. Smaller than was predicted, swell really changes size with the tides around here.
Weird part is I am still wearing a 6/4mm wetsuit in April. Surfed 4 hours, and wasn't hot.
I am a traveller of both time and space, a weaver in and out of dreams, I see worlds seldom seen.
Finally a nice little swell hits coinciding with a light offshore ,reports that temples(ulu watu) was 4-6ft 10 guys out before the tide kills it off ,canguu was swarming with pros cameras and others ,but not far from where im staying up the beach from 66 a series of mid to high tide banks were providing 3-4ft lefts and rights not uncrowded but enough for everyone the odd barrel for the superlightweight locals but with enough push to carry my 95ks .A few bintangs that night to flush any nasties that may have entered the system it was a great warm up for the coming season ,
feel free to make contact if your planning a trip to Indo the locals are intrigued by kneeboard surfing doesnt mean that they will give you a wave but its nice just the same
3ft lefts at Northy. Smashed a couple of nice reverses, plus I'm getting heaps of speed off my rebounds on my backhand roundhouses. All in all, a good surf.
We keep seeing great photos of Aussie Autumn surf on this site as our surf in Cailfornia goes to weak, windy Spring surf. A little sad, really. Keep the photos coming. It is the only way we will make it through summer, except for the occassional South Swell.
Been a rough couple of weeks in So Cal. Low pressure troughs or catalina eddy's on the days with swell, no swell on the days with favorable conditions.
After the jan/feb/march we had, it was bound to happen right??
Managed some fun and consistent HH windswell at Blakks yesterday before work, and heard it was good again this am. Got lucky and managed to dodge the eddy last weekend by heading south on saturday and staying local on sunday - got some sweet HH+ offshore both days while others were struggling with the dreaded SW winds
Mike, there is a nice article on Montauk in the new Surfer's Journal. No mention of meatpies with cappucino but they do recomend a place called Shagwongs Tavern and Restaurant for post surf sessions. Cheers.
Awesome Ken! Thanks. I have been keeping an eye out for Montauk all winter, but can't seem to get it with good waves and NW wind for 3-4 days in a row. It's a 5-6hr drive there for me, so it would be a good spot for a several day surfabout.
I am a traveller of both time and space, a weaver in and out of dreams, I see worlds seldom seen.
Mike,
Sunday looks interesting, decent swell and west wind (doh! just jinxed it!)
I'm thinking about going wetsuit shopping in OC MD, then if lucky, hitting it. How's it look for you?
Doug
"All I want in this life of mine is some good clean fun
All I want in this life and time is some hit and run"
Lowell George
paddled out at Lawton after lunch, ok. tide incoming killing most of energy beautiful day though. SF would love to join you but got little league games most of the day and forecast is for swell to continue to drop. Size and strength was barely rideable for my fat ass as it is. Borderline worthwhile for me. Hope you get some.