The surf was pretty balls today so i killed some time by putting a new clip on youtube.
Its just some old footage from the archives. Some of it you may have already seen, some not.
Check it out, hopefully you get something out of it.
Yeeoow http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-shfoQNbeyo
That video was insane! I especially liked the wave at 2:17.... doing what kneeboards were originally meant for ...tapping into the juiciest part of the wave...
..those airs look soooo fun, i wish i had a reef-break that ramped like that in my backyard..
Tide is the master, tide can be a disaster...-Dub side of the Moon
Really great, Chayne. What I like is how this video is almost like a tutorial on getting air; I played many sections over and over in two second chunks, watching how you interpreted the lip and the launch point. After multiple times of this quick viewing, I was better able to see how I typically would surf that same lip (never getting air really) and how I might go after it differently in the future........if possible. It takes some of the mysticism out of just how you guys do this.
Also interesting is how some of your bottom turns are not all that explosive but you still get good air by kind of popping off your knees to project up and out at the point of hitting the lip. On other waves, you do some sort of "pump" coming up the face out of your turn that generates additional speed--I'm not sure how you do that exactly; maybe more viewing will uncover this, too. But I am encouraged by seeing what can be done with even a "normal" bottom turn on the right wave, timed well.
This flick is a great gift to all of us who want to go higher!