Surf Report 2008

[skansand]

found some pics from a wedge kneeboard sesh from september...

http://eppicsurf.com/view_session.php?id=2874

a super fun day that turned scary when i almost got caught inside by some 15-20'+ waves that came in one long set.. i was furthest outside and the guy behind me got annihilated by the lip of the first wave...it took everyone to the beach, i was out there alone and didnt catch one of those monsters!
!!!!!

my only excuse is that it happened to be the death day of Jimi hendrix and we share the same birthday

those were the gnarliest waves ive ever seen ! and its haunted me i didnt go when i couldve got a 100 yard+ cloud break barrel....Next time il be prepared..

Romo quad...

i did get 3 in n outs and a couple other good waves before i snapped my 6'1 shoelkopf on a floater...

less board would be ideal for that wave and i happen to have a blank i could glass 5x6oz deck/ 3x6oz epoxy and still have a lighter board then glossed froghouse board...

[SFKneelo]

Oct. 22nd.

First session back.

Went out at South VFWs for 1 1/2 hours in offshore, groomed chest-HH waves. Mellow crowd. Hollow nuggets.

Caught about 20 waves, but definitely am out of surf shape and there's pain getting up.

Slow and steady... it's still far from 100%

Duck diving is going to be challenging.

Ran into John as he was heading out... last I saw he was heading towards tubes to the South.

Tide is about to bottom out... it's still plenty fun out there!

[K-man]

Good to hear your back in the water.. Feels good don't it.?Surf and weather have been cooperating for the last few weeks up this way.Reefs have been running up to a bit overhead +.Water cooled a bit,but the warm sun evens it out.
3+ hrs today.Almost went back out as the tide shifted and the point was just starting to go.Opted to save it for early tomorrow morn.Tough walking up the hill watching 4-5 ft point waves peeling down the reef.... Do we have fun??
One guy out,all to himself..Went thru town for peek at the left.18 decoys...no waves...
EQ...got your eyes on?Guess what's been breaking up at the big bay.There's a right bar at the entrance,just needs a decent NW,or south to break.Head hight,drop in tube,speed run, no cutties,100yds later,2ft of water,run back up the beach.... over...and over....

cheers



cheers

[SFKneelo]

K-Man... YUP!

Hope the Bay Area folks are dialed in today... it's looking darn fun!

Mr. Creediler... I just saw that Volcom has come out with the Creedler model. Hmmmm...

[K-man]

Friends were in the city yesterday,said it was good!Reefs were good again today.A bit bigger,two out for hrs...again... Go back tonite about 4 till almost dark.The walk in the dark is not good.
Buoys are 1.9 at 15 from 262.Gotta be something with it because it was solid overhead on the sets.

cheers

[stemple]

OB has been good, I got it yesterday and today at mid beach. Both days very fun. Offshore but not too hard, bars are getting better each day IMO. The whole beach looked totally surfable, with peaks all along its stretch when I left around 2 pm. Swell is supposed jump up big by the weekend. Hope it doesn't blow out the sand bars too bad. I think the cold water classic is on. The lane should be pretty good for contest.

[surfhorn]

The Lane has been producing decent waves for the contest. Offshore winds had the temp in the 70's by 9 AM. 86 degrees in my Aptos backyard at 5 PM.

[W.G. Facenda]

Surfed 5 hrs yesterday and too much before that .....took today off to get ready for more..53 and pulling in...offshore all day and 3- 5 ft perfection.. ALL day at the OS

[randiego]

Bob, glad to hear you're back in the water!

Caught about 20 waves, but definitely am out of surf shape and there's pain getting up.

Dude, that's a LOT of waves! Did you regret it?

Surfed 5 hrs yesterday and too much before that...

Damn, you guys and your 5 hour sessions!

[SFKneelo]

Hey Randy,

From my end, the session did strain my arm. It's feeling better today, but I need to chill abit...

Prime time... hard to miss, yet hard to partake!

Go get some!

Saw some nice pix of Newport... looks like you're getting some down South...

How's SD?

On another note... spoke to John Adams tonight, which was awesome. While he's now unfortunately back at USC after a brief home tour, he did have some nice visits and, in general, was all fight! GO JOHNNY!

[randiego]

Heh, don't overdo it!

I'm glad to hear your friend is still fighting.

SD has been okay, with a few swells, but not great. Been a poor Fall so far, with a few notable exceptions. Gove and I caught Rito going off in stiff offshores a couple of weekends ago.

[K-man]

Swell jumped today...another few feet.A bit disorganised,but rideable,classic new swell,raw with some power.Put the quad fish on the rack,broke out the pinnie.Solo surf at the reef point,had to sit way outside in the kelp.. Hmmmmmmmm... The other kneelo[MIKE)and the only other surfer out, was 1/2 mile down the reef,just a small dot...
Looks to be a jump again tom/sunday.City boyz!!4 lines of whitewater?....
Report from my bros said it was a tubefest over there yesterday.No ones talking? Santa cruisers?Gotta be something,yeah?Willk K? wut up?

cheers

[Willy Kelly]

K- man waves have been good up here in the Humland got big today
yesterday took a drive north with the Wes man he took me to a spot that is off the map waves were insane perfect hh bowls with offshore winds

the hard part was getting past the locals the big Elk were not happy to see us

peace and good waves

[surfhorn]

willy - if that is the same beach that I think it is, I surfed there back in 1976- tip toeing through the elk to surf.

[sf_firestarter]

Went out at OB today and that was a bad idea. THe weather was awesome but there was so much water moving and sucking straight out from the beach with 2-3x overhead waves I paddles non stop for 2.5 hours only to get crap.

Going elsewhere tomorrow.