ah yes of course the bells Classic me thinks. Swell is on the rise and today was a lay day due the predicted epic sessions over the next week.
so ks is having an expression session with a few lads and the swell is on the up (3 to 4) with only a light sea breeze to contend with.
banks are are a bit wobbly so theres a few close outs.
Kel
suggest hed would have bought me dinner if id taken the drop on one I pulled out of (local knowledge) so I suggest thats as good as a dare and take the next 4ft freefall...I make it but no dinner offer....quiet night with the mrs and kids booked in anyway so couldna made it!its worth surfin with such royalty as he and a few younger world tour surfers were holding the peak goin right which left the lefts pretty much to me with a few rights thrown in.
Heaps of people caught on so the stairs up to the car parks filled up...the up shot being kneeboarding got a bit of exposure by default...i did have a high wave count session so figure its a good thing.
anyway to be up close watching airs, insane close out drops into tubes and out again...only he surely, could do it, was a blast. I paddled harder and charged a few just based on the vibe.
A few other locals paddled out after watching for a while with that classic maaaaaate look on their face
ks plays golf apparently and he was off for a round after the session...I suggest Anglsea as there are kangaroos on the fairways but he already had a story about curly drives being impeded by nonchalant local fauna.
finished the session by following on the wave after kel
. Bells is in for some good waves over the next week and us mere mortals have some local reefs lined up as well. Today should see me through the autumn winter sessions with a new sense of attack.aka dorje
My own encounter with surfings upper echelons came in the form of sharing the line-up with " Mr. Pipeline " Gerry Lopez. He lives and shapes boards in Bend, Oregon. Drawn there by it's great snowboarding. As a lover of great lefts it was inevitable that he would eventually find his way to my favorite left point. My first memory is of him paddling past me ( I was on the peak ) and taking what was rightfully my wave 
I think as he dropped in I might have made a rude comment, unbecoming of one of my maturity. He then paddled back to the peak, and to my surprise ( and a bit of embarrassment 
)profusely apologized 
Well, we got to talking, about Bud ( I was on a Blast ) and how we both had the same name but he was really Gerald and I was really Jerome and the rest of the session was spent SHARING the peak and a good time was had by all. However 
Not all Seaside locals are as tolerant of outsiders, be they common kooks or visiting royalty 
Especially outsiders who catch so many waves and surf better than said locals 