Pad removal
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- Legend (Contribution King!)
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Pad removal
Does anyone have a good technique to removing old pads? Once there on therey are hard to remove. They almost always rip and get damaged. That may be the only way. Even ripping them leaves a mess.
Goo Gone will remove the old adhesive. It needs to make thorough contact with the built up adhesive so don't rush the process. I mix the GG into the adhesive with a putty knife as it softens to help the process. After all adhesive is gone the GG will leave an oily film. Wipe down with clean rags and get as much oil off as possible without chemical. A final wipe with alcohol/acetone or similar will take the residual film off the board.
I have never been able to save a pad that has been on for any length of time.
I have never been able to save a pad that has been on for any length of time.
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- K-man
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Got it down to a science.I use pads that have fronts and rears [parkes]
Put the board in the hot sun,till the pad is well warmed.cover the boards surface except for the padded area.Boil hot water,gently pour over the pad to be removed.You want the pad to be fairly hot,that will soften the glue.Want to be careful as too hot will cause heat damage.At this point the glue is well softened,and ''should ''peel off with a minimum of effort and damage to the pad.May need a bit of single edged blade work for the stubborn spots.Reused the pad on another board Done it twice,works well for me.
Single large pads may be a bit more difficult.
cheers
Put the board in the hot sun,till the pad is well warmed.cover the boards surface except for the padded area.Boil hot water,gently pour over the pad to be removed.You want the pad to be fairly hot,that will soften the glue.Want to be careful as too hot will cause heat damage.At this point the glue is well softened,and ''should ''peel off with a minimum of effort and damage to the pad.May need a bit of single edged blade work for the stubborn spots.Reused the pad on another board Done it twice,works well for me.
Single large pads may be a bit more difficult.
cheers
- K-man
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That stuff does work well.It's super toxic though.If you ues it,do it outside with plenty of fresh air.I wound up with a skin reaction on my hand which took almost a week to subside.
cheers
cheers
- RMcKnee
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patience
Gumby, K-man and quadfin have the science, technique and experience you need and Albert's on the money too.
Self adhesive things come with two basic types of adhesive: solvent based and spirit based. Spirit based self adhesive things are generally small like price stickers and such. They're annoying. Use metho for them.
Pads seem to employ a similar adhesive to that used in masking tapes, which is a mixture of white spirit (strictly speaking not a spirit at all, I know that's confusing but hang in there) some rubber compound and some goo. Given enough time and heat the solvent evaporates out and the solid residue is difficult to remove. Solvent will goo it up again so it can be removed from the surface. Use a low volatility, high flashpoint solvent like turps or white spirit. They don't evaporate quickly but hang around to weave their magic on the goo. Orange oil is an excellent and slightly greener alternative that really works. Great for cleaning that greasy stove in the kitchen too, unlike turps.
A more aggressive solvent is guaranteed to cost a lot more but won't necessarily do the job better if it evaporates away quicker. An added disadvantage is toxicity. Though all solvents are toxic to some extent, yer acetones, xylenes, MEKs and such are generally far worse than turps and metho. A lot of guys drink metho and live in the park. You cannot drink acetone and live at all. I rest my case.
Wear gloves. Be patient. Ventilation. Have 3 beers if you need to.
Self adhesive things come with two basic types of adhesive: solvent based and spirit based. Spirit based self adhesive things are generally small like price stickers and such. They're annoying. Use metho for them.
Pads seem to employ a similar adhesive to that used in masking tapes, which is a mixture of white spirit (strictly speaking not a spirit at all, I know that's confusing but hang in there) some rubber compound and some goo. Given enough time and heat the solvent evaporates out and the solid residue is difficult to remove. Solvent will goo it up again so it can be removed from the surface. Use a low volatility, high flashpoint solvent like turps or white spirit. They don't evaporate quickly but hang around to weave their magic on the goo. Orange oil is an excellent and slightly greener alternative that really works. Great for cleaning that greasy stove in the kitchen too, unlike turps.
A more aggressive solvent is guaranteed to cost a lot more but won't necessarily do the job better if it evaporates away quicker. An added disadvantage is toxicity. Though all solvents are toxic to some extent, yer acetones, xylenes, MEKs and such are generally far worse than turps and metho. A lot of guys drink metho and live in the park. You cannot drink acetone and live at all. I rest my case.
Wear gloves. Be patient. Ventilation. Have 3 beers if you need to.
Last edited by RMcKnee on Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Smokin Rock
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2HpyNyTBgE
everything you need to know about application and removal of a pad
everything you need to know about application and removal of a pad
"This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before." Butt-head
- Smokin Rock
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