Surf Report 2009

KenM · Post by **KenM** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 5:58 am

About 6:00 am, just checked the buoy, 17.1 @ 17 secs from 288 degrees. Happy Thanksgiving!

KenM · Post by **KenM** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:44 pm

Shacked again but holy kwap what a crowd. It's great spending Thanksgiving with your friends, but ALL of them? On the same peak? Crimeny!

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:47 pm

today Slater, Dorian, T. Meister and a host of others (including camera crew) descended on the Lighthouse. serious competition out there!
later they all left and about 5 of us scored nearly empty NNW bowls. really shallow on the inside. i got a screamer...pulled in but got clipped at the end. balled up and went over the falls right onto my knee/shin. deep bruise and deep cuts. sucks cus theres big Norths stacked up next week. not a good injury for a KNEELO

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:24 am

Chooks the clippee, that must've been fantastic to witness. Take care of that knee. Ouch!

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:09 am

fooj wrote: that must've been fantastic to witness.

you mean those guys surfing or me getting slammed on the reef?

or both?

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:45 am

Not to be mean, but the slamming part. Who doesn't enjoy watching a bit of tissue loss?

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:28 am

No wipeout is a good one unless your buddies are there to see and be entertained.

Heal fast chooky

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:50 am

i've left several watches, a number of skegs and half a pound of flesh on that reef.......i'm sure at least one of those watches is still down there ticking away

gives me a sense of ownership.....like every year i put another payment down. nothing stupid in the sense of localism but more a sense that when the really really good wave comes through it's gonna be mine cus i earned it.

das da onlee way cuz.........earn it!

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 12:35 pm

Funny how one can get a sense of ownership being an old clumsy oaf losing watches and eating s*&^ instead of emerging from throaty beasts and decapitating the living hell out of fearsome foambombs. I feel the same way at my home break too, Chooks.

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 1:19 pm

fooj wrote: I feel the same way at my home break too, Chooks.

Rubber Duckys?

i agree... i'd say the reef owns me!

skansand · Post by **skansand** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:11 pm

great b day today, (HAppy B-day Steeno!) Overhead C-street with one buddy and a light crowd..,,, great rides on the flashpoint and the mat

stoked

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:59 pm

There's a break in my NorCal area that I've surfed for years and years up to about 8', but that's it. Really learned how to ride the barrel there; lots of guys always surfing it (the whole UC Santa Cruz crew), but always having fun. Let's call the break "Foreceps": When bigger, however, the place just washes out all the way through to the channel. I've wasted a few OH sessions paddling around there wishing I was somewhere else. So I go to other breaks in the area more famous for their ability to hold size, or back into Santa Cruz.

Then I've started surfing of late with this father of a student at my school. Dad surfs all the time, and he keeps telling me how he surfs Foreceps frequently on big, clean swells, at up to triple OH, about 150 yards outside the outer point (pretty crazy!), and never crowded. I just couldn't picture it.

Last night he calls me says he just surfed Foreceps Thanksgiving morning at its biggest (Mavericks was 25' about 1 hour north), and that it will be a bit smaller but should be great today. So I'm up with him at the crack of dawn to that spot. I see big, clean lines coming off the point breaking clean and fast all the way across to the channel. Two guys out! I pulled out my 6' 0" gun and we surfed DOH waves all morning about 50 yards out past the point. 200 yard waves. The handful of other surfers stayed inside and let us have all the sets (he says it's always like that, maybe just him and a buddy or two). It was so much fun, maybe making about 60% of the set waves, going as fast as I could. Biggest drops of the season, some big cleanups. "Nothing", he says, "compared to yesterday..."

Wow, I've got a new big wave spot right under everyone's noses, and a place I'd written off.

ezak · Post by **ezak** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:03 pm

Not a good time to have a sinus infection

http://www.surfshot.com/Surf+Sessions/S ... 17747.html

check out the 13 and 14th pics

Today it's victory at sea conditions. Maybe tomorrow?!

ezak · Post by **ezak** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 10:11 pm

plastic green nose noodles

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 10:30 pm

Great sequence shots there, Ezak. Fantastic wave and positioning!