Another "Big Wendsday" Yea Yeah!!!

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greg "swivel"
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Another "Big Wendsday" Yea Yeah!!!

Post by greg "swivel" »

Surfed "Ultra Sensitive":wink: PV Peni, alone!!!!! WHAT? :shock: ..
Thatz right caught my shhhhspot Solo for 3 hours of sucking out,
Double Overhead+, Lined up,Heaving over, somtimez dry reef,Choked in Kelp,Unreeling Heavy Heavy,Crystal Barrelz!!! Smokin!!!One of my Best and Memorible Seshez ever(in a while).........My only injuriez today.....Jeez,....chiped 2 teeth,almost broke my jaw (Not from Localz) smashed & semi lost consciousness and got a sizible rail ding from a face plant :shock: triing to punch out the back on a +plus+ size close out,hung up in kelp!!!! SO WAY WORTH IT! BaY RaiLz and ShReDDeD ChEEzE!!!
~:} ~See ya from the Inside....Lookin Out~ {:~ ~GH~
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Scott
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Post by Scott »

Greg, that sounds epic. Hope your mouth/jaw heal up soon. More swell on the way this weekend!

I surfed 10-15' Swift Street (not a secret spot) today, but with only about 4 other guys out with me. The somewhat sideshore winds caused some bump on the outside that made the normally active crew go elsewhere, I suppose. Ever 10-15 minutes the 14 ft., 17 second swell would produce some pretty immense waves that were probably 400-500 yards across, and I would get to catch the end of them after they closed out in massive sections 1/4 mile just up the coast. Most rides were at least 200 yards. Best day of big wave surfing for me in a long time, as the waves were very fast and you simply pumped and streaked for all you were worth. Some barrels on the inside after it slowed down a bit down the line. Minimal current, too!
I'm not influenced by the past; I change it!
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southpeakbrad
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Post by southpeakbrad »

Scott, it's been record breaking year for you! It seems every 10 days or so you set another record. Well done! 8)
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Jimbo
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Post by Jimbo »

Scott - you're nuts!
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Scott
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Post by Scott »

Thanks, Brad. I swear I'm not lying about all this size stuff. Some years are just better than others and some years you just end up with the time off at the right time to take advantage, instead of always hearing, "boy, you really missed it two days ago!"

I have the first tender knee I've ever had, and don't remember anything causing it yesterday. Don't know quite what to do about it and when to go back in the water...
I'm not influenced by the past; I change it!
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JohnS
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Post by JohnS »

Scott wrote:I have the first tender knee I've ever had, and don't remember anything causing it yesterday. Don't know quite what to do about it and when to go back in the water...
I can relate Scott. Awesome surf lately. I didn't realize that I had sprained/broken one of my fingers until I was thawing out on the way home the other day...

It was worth it for sure though. 8)

Cold is good :D
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