Surf Report 2010

RMcKnee · Post by **RMcKnee** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:07 am

Mike Fernandez wrote:Funny though, water is 72, air is high 80's, and 65% of the people are wearing short sleeve full suits.

Mike those guys have a heap of friends and relations here on the Goldie.
Tontos de goma

Hope you score.

Mark Ramirez · Post by **Mark Ramirez** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:51 pm

The local news chanel showed North Carolina, big waves right now but really blown-out. Looked like nobody was out!

The hurricane is going by the Carolinas, and it's headed towards New England.

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:39 pm

Got skunked on the hurricane. The surf report was the only correct indicator for the storm it seems. It had the winds maxing at 20mph yesterday for today, but I thought, nah, the surf report can't be correct.

They evacuated people, and boarded up things for nothing.
The surf was about eight foot on the faces, but Seal Beach heavy. I went out from 5pm till dark when the wind turned offshore at about 18mph. I caught a few, and got worked on a couple.
Should be chest high tomorrow, then waist high on Sunday.
Fun times.

capesurf · Post by **capesurf** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:01 pm

Buxton was double overhead with a 20-30 mph offshore wind and bombing today and nobody here but us natives. It was an easy paddle out if you timed it right (terrible if you missed) but the current outside was horrible.

KneeBumps · Post by **KneeBumps** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:42 am

Amazing how exact the forecast was for this storm. Years ago they would have evac'd all of NC down to the SC border. They called the path spot on, and the damage was slight.

Mike, I heard they arrested and fined somebody for surfing in OC yesterday? Wtf was that? Were you trying to join Paris in the slammer?

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:20 am

He must have been trying to surf in the morning, full on Victory at Sea storm surf, but cleaned up with the offshores after 5pm. A few surfers were out, and a few spongers. Lots of spectators.
A friend told me that a guy was arrested for going out nekkid as a Jaybird.

Of course everyone and their mother was out this morning at chest high.

Going to be good again this afternoon, winds offshore.
Should be waist high tomorrow.

mutiny · Post by **mutiny** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:49 pm

sounds like your scoring there mike! the photos on surfline are sick!!!

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 4:17 pm

Two a day surfs for the last three days.

Here's a video I found in the area.
http://www.swellinfo.com/video/index.html?play=1261
Earl in Delmarva.

maxb · Post by **maxb** » Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:56 am

Good for you Mike, bout time you got your share.
Max

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:19 pm

some of those footboarders are pulling into heavy shacks

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 4:25 am

That was heavy. It was a couple feet smaller where I was, but the whole wave was just as thick. I hit the sand bottom a couple times, thought I was bleeding on my back.

Bud · Post by **Bud** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:13 pm

First Winter season swell arrived along with a very Wintry look, weather wise.
Thick over cast in the early AM with rain showers.

Surfed with Lee Pattison at Jocko's.
The rip was cranking (as normal when big) dragging most of the crew too far out much of the time (or they just didn't want to deal with getting mowed by the sets).
Regular close outs, but well worth the effort, hold downs and beatings.
The sets that just capped in the channel, backed off and turned inside out in the bowl.
Rode a new 6' F2K that went unreal.
Racked up 16 waves in 2 hours.
After each ride, I just let the rip drag me back out, arriving back in the takeoff zone just as the next set hit, nearly every time.

Played out well like a merry go round.
Last wave took me nearly to the beach.

Feeling pretty beat at the moment, but in good way.

Sunset has some nice looking A frames.

Swell is too straight on, for Back Yards.
Mostly close outs either direction.

Swell's forecast to hang in there for 2 more days then more swell starting next Saturday.

BRING IT ON !!!

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:32 pm

Glad to hear it Bud! I'll be over 3 weeks from Tuesday. I hope that window stays open!!

rooster · Post by **rooster** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:54 pm

Yeah, first swell of the season and the N Shore was packed

Lani's was parked out by 9:00am. Pipe had a gaggle of spongers, looked like a beehive, but WAY too much sand. Swell had a bit too much west in it I thought. Rocky Pt. area had a lot of backwash due to summer build up of sand. Things should be a bit more sorted out by the time you get here Randy.
West side was smaller but cleaner, and PACKED

SFKneelo · Post by **SFKneelo** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:56 pm

Nothing off the charts, but the last few days have been fun around here.

Winds have cooperated, along with that SW swell.

Definite signs of Fall.

Nothing like long-period swell and a current work-out to get the blood flowing. Wish the current worked like that here Bud!

Time to see if that first winter swell will show up around here...