Small boards for big waves
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- Local (More than 25 post)
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- Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2003 3:36 am
- Location: Curly
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- Local (More than 25 post)
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- Joined: Tue May 04, 2004 12:39 am
- Location: phillip island
short or long?
NO-ONE HAS TOUCHED ON FIN SIZE ,I RIDE A 5'10X24'TRI-FIN WITH TWO RED-X BOXES.I HAVE TWO SETS OF FINS SMALL SET X-3'S AND A LARGER SET X-2'S,I FIND FIN SIZE AND POSITION HAS DRAMATIC EFFECTS ON ONE BOARD.AS FAR AS BOARD LENGTH IS CONCERNED I THINK ITS A MATTER OF TASTE ,DEFINATLEY EASIER TO PADDLE.AS FAR AS LOOSENESS OF LONGER BOARDS/SHORTER BOARDS ,MANY VARIABLES EG;ROCKER,V,RAIL ,.ETC.ANY WAY JUST THOUGHT I WOULD THROW A SPANNER IN THE WORKS.AT THE END OF THE DAY WE ARE ALL IDIVIDUALS WITH DIFFERENT STYLES AND ABILITES.SO RIDE WHAT EVER WORKS FOR YOU///// 

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- Legend (Contribution King!)
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- Location: San Diego, Vista
Headwax,
You are correct ot bring up the subject of surface area. And I have touched on the subject in a PM to Hart. The issue was to find a volume that works for a riders "mass" then to maintain it in all of their boards. When length or width is increased to create more surface area, thickness will have to be decreased to maintain the correct volume.
Curtis
You are correct ot bring up the subject of surface area. And I have touched on the subject in a PM to Hart. The issue was to find a volume that works for a riders "mass" then to maintain it in all of their boards. When length or width is increased to create more surface area, thickness will have to be decreased to maintain the correct volume.
Curtis
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- Local (More than 25 post)
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- Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 12:30 pm
- Location: Oceanside Ca.
I met another KB`er and I asked him if I could try his board.So we traded for a few waves.his was a 5-10 and mine was 5'. The first wave I caught with his board I I fell off because it wouldn`t turn. I was used to mine.The next couple of waves, I moved back on the tail and the board did do better.But ,it didn`t do what I expected it to do. He said mine was uncontrolable.
I also have a 4'9" that I have ridin in 15' surf and I loved it..
So, my taught on the subject is,ride the board that you know
I also have a 4'9" that I have ridin in 15' surf and I loved it..
So, my taught on the subject is,ride the board that you know
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- Legend (Contribution King!)
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- Local (More than 25 post)
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- Location: Oceanside Ca.
Red...Not always...I seem to catch as many waves as the next guy and what I mean by that is, I can usually catch a wave at the same time the other guy does. I used my arms more then most KBer`s i`ve seen. I can`t denie I work hard to catch waves. late take-offs are easier but I have this pholosy, if I can catch the wave without cutting someone off, i`m going for it. If I make it, it looks good, if I eat it, oh well. It`s all about the picture.The down fall I see with the sizes of my boards is there needs to be some amount of steepness to the wave. It doesn`t have to be big, just a face that brakes with somekind of speed.
- hart
- Legend (Contribution King!)
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- Location: Dee Why, Sydney.
absolute truths
Flexman,
Once more you make such accurate observations.
But for most of us, we live within the mundane rigidity of contemporary surfboards..solid foam and fibreglass..and this ( I think) is what stemple is referring to.
If you were to design (rigid) foam to react as if it were flexible, you would design certain elements with straightness. You would then design other portions with curve.
You may then blend it all together with some kind of 3 dimensional contour..a form of foil.
All with flex in mind..but concious that you're working with a medium that is without flex.
And so if you did, you would need length to make things happen subtley..otherwise it may all happen too quick.
And without the benefit (beauty) of inherent flex..that may be a disaster.
hart
Once more you make such accurate observations.
But for most of us, we live within the mundane rigidity of contemporary surfboards..solid foam and fibreglass..and this ( I think) is what stemple is referring to.
If you were to design (rigid) foam to react as if it were flexible, you would design certain elements with straightness. You would then design other portions with curve.
You may then blend it all together with some kind of 3 dimensional contour..a form of foil.
All with flex in mind..but concious that you're working with a medium that is without flex.
And so if you did, you would need length to make things happen subtley..otherwise it may all happen too quick.
And without the benefit (beauty) of inherent flex..that may be a disaster.
hart
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- Local (More than 25 post)
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- Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 12:30 pm
- Location: Oceanside Ca.
I have to say , you guys confuse the hell out of me. Maybe i`m stuck in the dark age.I have shaped a few boards for myself.
I don`t consder myself a "shaper".I usually have my boards made. I don`t listen to the latest and greatest trends.Maybe I should. I don`t just go in and bye someone else`s design. I order my boards how I want them based on what I have riddin and what I think will make it work the way I want it to. The last board I had made is a exact copy of a board that I had made in the late 70s. A 4'9" stinger swallow with a hydo that goes into a step on the bottom, single fin box with a "Velzy" butterfly fin. It worked good back then,it works good now. I prefer loose boards. In my book, there`s nothing like dropping in on a good size wave on a short board and saying to myself, this is going to be fun !!!!
I don`t consder myself a "shaper".I usually have my boards made. I don`t listen to the latest and greatest trends.Maybe I should. I don`t just go in and bye someone else`s design. I order my boards how I want them based on what I have riddin and what I think will make it work the way I want it to. The last board I had made is a exact copy of a board that I had made in the late 70s. A 4'9" stinger swallow with a hydo that goes into a step on the bottom, single fin box with a "Velzy" butterfly fin. It worked good back then,it works good now. I prefer loose boards. In my book, there`s nothing like dropping in on a good size wave on a short board and saying to myself, this is going to be fun !!!!